What is it like? I plan to get some in 4 to 6 lb for hard to trick fish.
I use only braided line on all my inshore gear. I will tie about 12-18" of fluoro leader onto it. Smallest fluoro I use is 20# and I’ve never had any issues catching reds, trout, flounder etc. Even when the water is clearer in the winter, they still hit without hesitation.
2014 Pioneer 197 Sportfish
2012 Malibu Stealth 12 Kayak
“If people concentrated on the really important things in life, there would be a shortage of fishing poles”
Are you thinking of spooling up with flouro? It’s a bit stiffer than mono and won’t cast as well if spooled up on a spinning reel. I would just spool up with mono and only use the flouro as a leader.
'07 198 DLX Carolina Skiff
DF90 Suzuki
Fluoro is only good for leader. Castable fluoro is terrible as far as castability, abrasion resistance, and knot strength. Fluoro line has become the biggest marketing ruse in the fishing market today.
You cannot do any better than braid with Fluoro leader. Braid gives you more strength at a smaller diameter which also means more line on your spool to handle a big red. Although braid is more expensive, it lasts longer. I flipped the braid on my reels this year to hopefully get another two years.
Casting Knots can be a ***** but learning flip the bail with your hand will reduce them
Mark Ingle
NauticStar 1810 Merc 90
Plus, learn the FG knot. The best flouro to braid knot their is.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=5G0FO7Iy-60
quote:
Originally posted by jstrangePlus, learn the FG knot. The best flouro to braid knot their is.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=5G0FO7Iy-60
Practice/test this knot a few times before fishing if you are running fluoro. I’ve found that the knot doesn’t bite into the fluoro as well as mono.
That being said, I usually fish 15# braid to 20# fluoro with that exact knot, I just have to be careful when tying it. I like to pull the braid HARD (both running line and tag end) back down towards the end of the leader after doing the initial wraps, like they show in this IGFA video:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=oohOoOOmbNk
It’s also a good idea to pull tight after the first two half-hitches, like the Salt Strong guys show.
Wear gloves if you plan on doing more than one setup at a time 
1994 Hewes Redfisher 18, 2004 Yamaha 150 VMAX
Malibu X-Factor Kayak
quote:
Originally posted by brysonquote:
Originally posted by jstrangePlus, learn the FG knot. The best flouro to braid knot their is.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=5G0FO7Iy-60
Practice/test this knot a few times before fishing if you are running fluoro. I’ve found that the knot doesn’t bite into the fluoro as well as mono.
That being said, I usually fish 15# braid to 20# fluoro with that exact knot, I just have to be careful when tying it. I like to pull the braid HARD (both running line and tag end) back down towards the end of the leader after doing the initial wraps, like they show in this IGFA video:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=oohOoOOmbNk
It’s also a good idea to pull tight after the first two half-hitches, like the Salt Strong guys show.
Wear gloves if you plan on doing more than one setup at a time
1994 Hewes Redfisher 18, 2004 Yamaha 150 VMAX
Malibu X-Factor Kayak
Agreed. Very important to cinch down the knot before you trim the leader tag.
Thanks for sharing this. I have tied uni-to-uni for years but thats about to change!
Mark Ingle
NauticStar 1810 Merc 90
Well I fished the FG knot today and I have to say I am impressed! Caught a ton of trout and did not have a problem. Also I think I got a few more feet of casting distance. The weighted hooks did cast further than before and I never felt the knot going through the eyes on the rod. Another great thing about this knot is that you don’t need to re-tie after a day of fishing! The concept is based on the same thing as Chinese handcuffs…the knot is really a weave that gets tighter as you pull on the leader!
Mark Ingle
NauticStar 1810 Merc 90
WOW, what a knot! Thanks for sharing, always have used the uni to uni but I think i’m about to change.
I tie my wind on for my shark rigs with a similar knot 150lb pp to 300lb mono and had some skepticisms about it but after being hung up and pulling to my back and legs got sore made me a believer, but with any fancy knot make sure its perfect and test it before using.
I have always used the Albright knot for fluoro to braid, never had a problem but I’ll have to check out that FG knot.
“Apathy is the Glove into Which Evil Slips It’s Hand”, but really, who cares?
quote:
Originally posted by RADDADDYFluoro is only good for leader. Castable fluoro is terrible as far as castability, abrasion resistance, and knot strength. Fluoro line has become the biggest marketing ruse in the fishing market today.
LOL
I agree with Raddaddy. All this hype about the fish seeing the line is just that, marketing hype!
IMO, braid is as close as you will get to the “perfect” line. All lines are a compromise and the “best” will provide a good balance of knot strength, castability, stretch and durability/ abrasion resistance.
I’m using braid on most reels, mostly Sufix 832, and Yozuri Hybrid on others. IMO, fluoro is a bit more abrasion resistant than mono & braid, and the Hybrid has a fluoro coating, casts pretty good & is less pricey than straight fluoro. That’s why I decided to try it several years ago. Been happy with it. I’m using both primarily on baitcasters, but have tried the Soft Hybrid version on some spinning gear & no issues with it there either. Previously I only used mono on my spinning gear, except I do have some braid on a couple surf spinning reels. I had used Silver Thread & Ande mono for many years, still have some on some spinning reels I use for panfish, and can highly recommend them both for anyone who wishes to stick with mono type lines. There are other very good lines on the market too, and often comes down to cost.
With the braid, I seldom use a leader, just tie direct and I like the yellow or lime colored braids best as I can see them better. I’ve got some of the low vis green, which is OK, I just don’t see it as well. Even fish bass jigs with the hi vis braid, tying direct and can’t say I’ve hooked less fish because of it.
If a person actually believes that these fish are so smart as to know what that tiny section of line is & that they shouldn’t bite that bait or lure that’s attached, then that person doesn’t deserve to catch them in the first place!
A question like this just came up on a bass site I frequent. “Gliss” is a newer type of line that was mentioned with high regard. I believe it’s from Europe, and is marketed here in the US by Ardent. Anyone here tried it?
^^ I don’t think visibility impacts the bite all that much around here. When bait fishing around docks, we used to fish 30# braid main line with 50# braid leader directly to the hook. Never did make a difference as far as the bite goes, at least not here in Charleston under a few feet of our off-color water.
Still, I fish fluoro or mono leader now, but it’s mostly because I fish artificials – braid has a tendency to wrap the hooks sometimes, so it’s nice to have a little stiffness in the last couple of feet of line .
1994 Hewes Redfisher 18, 2004 Yamaha 150 VMAX
Malibu X-Factor Kayak
Hey P-K. Do the standard knot and abrasion testing with most all castable fluoro on an instron machine before you LOL. No access to instron? Tie an overhand knot and pull. It’s a joke.
I only like fluoro for leaders. I will say that I have fished with identical rigs for trout except I used braid and my partner used mono and he out caught me at least 2 to 1. If the water is a little murkier, it probably wouldn’t matter. Just my observation.
quote:
Originally posted by RADDADDYHey P-K. Do the standard knot and abrasion testing with most all castable fluoro on an instron machine before you LOL. No access to instron? Tie an overhand knot and pull. It’s a joke.
Fluoro line has become the biggest marketing ruse in the fishing market today.
this is where you got me chuckling.
oldest line in the game is ‘fishing lures are made to catch more fishermen, than fish’. But sure you know that 
quote:
Originally posted by RADDADDYHey P-K. Do the standard knot and abrasion testing with most all castable fluoro on an instron machine before you LOL. No access to instron? Tie an overhand knot and pull. It’s a joke.
what model Instron you using to measure abrasion? I was unaware they had that capability, but its been a few years …
fwiw … I dont use leaders as a knot adds another point of failure to the system. Im indifferent to Fluro. I prefer other polymers. When I do use flouro, its only on casting reels. Ive honestly not had any issues casting or with knots. And Im not a fan of braid. Its too expensive and never saw the value. Different strokes …