Any suggestions on a reasonable Ford shop or mechanic? Truck started running like crap yesterday. Had a misfire code, so I changed the plugs myself on the 5.4 (was no dam fun at all, but didn’t break one) and the got her smoothed out a bit, but still running rough. A new code came in (p0012) and now I hear the “chain slap” for a second when hitting the gas. Rough idle. No power. From what research I’ve done, its needs new timing , guides and tensioners… this is way more than I’m willing to do in my driveway. I need to have an actual mechanic point me in the right direction on this. Any one with some knowledge, please help a fisherman out! Thanks
you should have the easy one that has the solenoid exposed outside of the valve cover. youll just need two MOTORCRAFT solenoids and two new seals. did the rattling just start? and im assuming you are getting a rough idle, especially after the truck warms up?
Proline 201WA
Aloha 24ft pontoon (LooneyToon)
Old Town stern with 7.5 johnson
I think you are correct… watching a new video and that’s how this guy does it… that’s a saver for sure! The vid I was watching was a 4.6 but the title said 5.4 or 4.6
like exhaust or like raw fuel? so "brief explanation on whats happening: those solenoids use oil pressure to basically rotate your cams, so that the valve timing changes. whats happening is those solenoids are getting stuck and not releasing at idle, which means the motor is too retarded at idle RPMs, which is why youre getting that pinging noise. retarded timing at idle can cause incomplete combustion which can cause a run rich scenario, which will make the exhaust smell(kind of like the smell of a 2stroke outboard idling at the dock). but if you smelling gas, like youre at the pump, then you have something else going on
Proline 201WA
Aloha 24ft pontoon (LooneyToon)
Old Town stern with 7.5 johnson
btw, you will need a long T27(i think) torx to remove those solenoids. i recommend NOT using a socket with extension. you motor will be “open” at this point, so you have the potential of dropping something down into your engine. if you dont have any other option other than using a socket, tape the **** out of the socket with electrical tape. even then, youre going to pay hell trying to get the new bolt started because of the the thickness of the socket body rubbing against the actual solenoid
Proline 201WA
Aloha 24ft pontoon (LooneyToon)
Old Town stern with 7.5 johnson
I think the code said advanced timing, not retarded… I borrowed a ‘bluedriver’ code reader to read again when I get home, the guys at advance act like the codes are their dam PIN numbers or something haha
I ordered the oem VCT’s and seals from Amazon for 148$ and will have them tomorrow. Ford wanted 95$ for one and 25$ per seal as well… 23 taught me that I can find stuff for less $$$ on the internets, an extra day out isn’t going to make or break my situation! Thanks for the prompt replies MrMechanic!
good deal. you will be happy you went OEM with those. part of the problem for them failing is their very tight tolerance, so going with cheap aftermarket parts only makes that worse.
Proline 201WA
Aloha 24ft pontoon (LooneyToon)
Old Town stern with 7.5 johnson
TheMechanic reminds me of myself when I was younger.Did I ever tell you boys about the time P.H. Livingston was having a problem with his 55 Chevy ...............
and i bet your fuel mileage goes up.