Three weeks ago I fished the Coastal Anglers Tournament and when I went to fill the bait well the pump would not run. The pump is a cartridge style pump so I pulled the motor real quick just to see if perhaps there was something blocking the impeller. After removing the cartridge the pump began running so I figured it had just become fouled with some sand or trash. The pump ran flawlessly for the rest of the day so I gave it no more thought. The following weekend we fished the James Island Yacht Club Tournament and again the pump would not run. I pulled the cartridge again but no luck this time. Fortunately I have two live wells and we just used the backup bait well to keep our bait frisky.
Upon returning home I checked the operation of the switch at the console with my test light to ensure it and the associated breaker were working properly. After confirming operation of the switch I cut the wires to the cartridge at the stern of the boat and hooked my test light to the positive lead that runs from the console to the stern. The light indicated that I had voltage so I assumed the pump motor was bad. Just before I dropped the motor in the trash I decided I would give the pump motor one last quick test and hooked it directly to the boat battery and the pump worked fine! I went back and tested the hot lead to the pump in the boat with my test light and again it showed voltage. I tried the pump again on the wires and the pump would not run? What the heck was going on? I decided to pull out the electrical meter for a quick test. The meter revealed I was only getting 8 volts and not 12.5 on the leads running to the pump. Since my test light is for 6 to 24VDC it is no wonder it showed voltage and while this tool is good for quick tests it definitely lacks the objectivity that is often required.
Boat electrical issues can be some of the most frustrating around. Trouble shooting an issue that works some of the time and not others is enough to make you pull your hair out. Remember all marine grade wiring should