Need advice on what to do with my 93 high tide super v 1503. Got some soft spots around the pedestal in the floor. Was thinking that at the end of summer I’d try cutting out the soft spot and replacing some of the foam if it’s wet like I suspect and stringers if need be. Anybody know if it would be possible to replace a small piece of the floor or if the foam is saturated would the whole floor need to be replaced?
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Originally posted by Budman14Need advice on what to do with my 93 high tide super v 1503. Got some soft spots around the pedestal in the floor. Was thinking that at the end of summer I’d try cutting out the soft spot and replacing some of the foam if it’s wet like I suspect and stringers if need be. Anybody know if it would be possible to replace a small piece of the floor or if the foam is saturated would the whole floor need to be replaced?
I have a 98 high tide 15’ and I have a soft spot near the port locker up front. If you do a cutout and repair, I’d love to see some pictures, or help. Just for my own knowledge.
May all your favorite bands stay together…
Go to West Marine and get some “Stop Rot” , it worked good on my floor.
That’s a great post empty pockets it shows me a lot. I was hoping that I don’t have to go to that extent but no telling until I cut it open. Just curious, was all the foam in your boat soaked and stringers rotten? Also where’d you find the marine ply? I’m in manning and not sure if anyone has it around here
Foam was soaked and standing water underneath it. Stringers were not rotten but not good…They used nails to nail the sole into the stringer, therefore they got replaced as well. I got the marine ply from Florence…they got it from Diamond Hill Plywood. It was fir (not the best, but it was the only option locally) PM me with details.
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Not sure if these pics will show or not. Really worried about what I’ll find if I go into this thing and not sure if I have the time or resources to fix it myself.
Anyone have a guess what I could get for this boat as is? I don’t want to give the motor away as it runs great and the trailer is in good shape as well. Any input is appreciated.
Sorry can’t figure out the pic not sure how to change that, but transom feels really solid, I’ve tapped all around with a hammer and it’s a solid sound all the way around. What’s another way to check it? It’s got metal plates on both sides of the transom where the motors mounted. I’ve heard about drilling shallow holes and such just not sure how many is safe. And how close should I drill to the drain plug?
How to post pictures:
http://old.charlestonfishing.com/forum/topic.asp?TOPIC_ID=145155
May all your favorite bands stay together…
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I might be an idiot when it comes to using photobucket but these are a couple pics of my boat. But anyway back to my original question about checking the transom. Can someone tell me how many holes can safely be drilled and how close to the drain hole should I be drilling?
I would drill a dozen or more holes to check for rotten or wet wood. I would remove the drain plug fitting and check around it for rot, same with engine mounting holes, transducer holes, splash well drains, any screw or bolt that’s ever been in it. It’s not much harder to fill 30 holes than it is one.
Capt. Larry Teuton
Swamp Worshiper
Thanks for the reply Capt Larry. I drilled several holes in the transom and all looked pretty good to my inexperienced eye. Light brown shavings. There’s also a thru-hull fitting for an aerator just above the drain plug that I was very surprised when I took it out looked completely dry. Couldn’t get the drain fitting out but with the hammer test it seems pretty solid down there. Engine mounting holes didn’t look that good. Wood was a little damp and dark brown but wasn’t soft like I thought it’d be. Would it be possible to drill those out oversized and fill with PB and redrill ?
Ok so I trimmed the motor and bounced all over it and saw no flex at all so I removed the motor and took the boat to a local guy that does lots of boats so he could give an opinion. He drilled a few more holes in transom and he thinks all is good there but floor and seat box still need to be replaced, which I already knew.
He wants about 700 to do that, not including if stringers and foam need replacing. Is it even possible that the stringers and foam are still good? I know it’s a ton of work but just not sure if that’s a reasonable price or not.
I’m on a tight budget right now so I think I might just have to do it myself little by little as I have time and can afford.
Should I start by cutting a few inches from the hull at a 45 in small sections or should I just try to cut it all out at once? I know there’s no telling what I’ll find till I get into it but I want it to be done right but also not wanting to do more than I have to.
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Is it even possible that the stringers and foam are still good?
Not very likely. Cutting open decks on a boat of that age usually opens up an ugly can of worms. But you never know until you cut out a good chunk of it and look.
Capt. Larry Teuton
Swamp Worshiper
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How worried should I be about this? Transom is really solid, drilled holes in multiple places, all shavings dry, stood on motor, no flex. Drain hole and motor mount holes also seem ok. Wondering if this could be fixed without removing the outer skin??
Ok so I guess I’ve been in denial as to what really needs to happen here. Upon further review I’ve found evidence that my problems are bigger than I’d hoped. Gonna be doing new deck, stringers, transom, the works. Deconstruction will begin soon and any input from some of you pros will be appreciated. Honestly I’m a little worried since I haven’t done this before but been getting good info from Empty Pockets and hopefully I’ll have similar results as his high tide project. Anyway I’ll be sure to post some pics and hope to hear from y’all.
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Ok so I guess I've been in denial as to what really needs to happen here. Upon further review I've found evidence that my problems are bigger than I'd hoped. Gonna be doing new deck, stringers, transom, the works.
What did I tell you earlier? I’ve opened many of these cans of worms before, it’s always worse than you hope for. And on many, not worth the cost on repairs.
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Is it even possible that the stringers and foam are still good?
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Not very likely. Cutting open decks on a boat of that age usually opens up an ugly can of worms.
Capt. Larry Teuton
Swamp Worshiper
The real question is…do you LOVE this boat? If so, start forgeting about money invested. Trust me. I am glad a did my project. I am also glad I bought a 15’ john boat. There is good and bad in both scenarios.
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The real question is..........do you LOVE this boat? If so, start forgeting about money invested.
That is the question. Is the juice worth the squeeze to you?
Capt. Larry Teuton
Swamp Worshiper
Thanks for the input guys.
Well I guess I do love the boat, it’s my first, it rides much better than any Jon boat or flat bottom boat I’ve been in. It’s not much to look at but it gets me where I wanna go and does what I want it to.
My reasoning in fixing it vs junking it is I got a quote on a new hull, a 15’ Mi-Tide, for $4500. Are y’all saying that I’ll have that much in this rebuild??
On the other hand, if I buy used there’s no telling what I’m getting, could go down this same road again.
All that being said, I still have no idea how much resin I’ll need for this job, seems like that’ll be the biggest expense.