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for $4500. Are y'all saying that I'll have that much in this rebuild??
My guess would be about 2.5-3K in materials to do it right, plus a whole lot of nasty work. so depending on the value you put on your labor, then yes.
Capt. Larry Teuton
Swamp Worshiper
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Well everyone that I know thinks I’m an idiot for starting this project, but this is where I’m at. Got a long way to go for sure.
Thinking about leaving the cap on and just cutting it far enough at the back to redo the transom.
Would that help keep some shape to the boat or should I just go ahead and remove it? Any thoughts are appreciated
I see you are as stubborn as I am 
I would leave the cap on, no need to remove it completely. Just cut back enough to access the transom for replacement, 18" or so should be plenty. Leave the outer fiberglass skin intact and remove the core from the inside.
Capt. Larry Teuton
Swamp Worshiper
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Got some hairy stuff going on in a few spots on the hull. Will this be an issue?
Also got in a hurry with the grinder and went thru the hull as you can can see in the second pick. Im know I’m a long way from that point but how do I go about patching that?
I “made” a hole or two in mine as well. I put three layers of 12 oz. biax (overlapping 1.5 - 2") on the inside and filled in from the outside with thickend epoxy. Then on the outside I put one layer of 12 oz. …Faired it, and rolled on.
This thread is bringing back memories for sure.
Are you leaving the floor area from the seat to the transom or are you going to replace that as well?
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No this is where I stand right now. Man it’s just so hot that I can’t get much done all at once. As well as doing my honey do list at the same time. Gonna be a long process for sure.
The floor will completely be replaced as well as the transom and stringers. Like you said before with nails holding the floor, the stringers didn’t have a chance once the foam got wet. They’re pretty much mush.
Gonna try to cut the stringers out in one piece to use as templates, hopefully they’ll be intact enough for that
I thought the same thing with the stringers, however the amount of thickened resin (among other things) probaby won’t let you use the old stringers as exact templates. They will give you a pretty close idea of height. My three stringers came out in approximately 50-241 seperate pieces as well. You are making good progress! Grinding glass while sweating in the summer time…Good times1 
Couple of questions about materials. I know that epoxy is a superior product but because of costs I’ll probably be using poly resin. I’ll also probably just use exterior ply.
When I replace the stringers could I just use pine vs plywood or would there be bonding issues?
About the cloth, could I use 1708 for transom and 12 oz biax for floor and stringers? And how many layers would I need on transom and floor?
I would use at least marine ply. The wood from big box stores is not great and full of knots, etc. Spend the slightly extra money and do it right and do it once.
I would use marine plywood and epoxy. The difference in price isn’t enough to make up for the labor spent, or the labor to do it again.
Capt. Larry Teuton
Swamp Worshiper
It is not any of the more exotic varieties, but, Lowes West Ashley carries douglas fir marine plywood. The only thickness ni the store is 3/4". At least, that’s what they had the few times I’ve looked. Stuff is pretty good quality and is genuine marine grade. They show 1/2" on their website, as well.
17’ Henry O Hornet w/ Johnson 88 spl
26’ Palmer Scott project hull
14’ Bentz-Craft w/ Yamaha 25
Thanks for the input guys, point taken. I am on a budget so just checkin my options but definitely want to make it to last
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Originally posted by Budman14Thanks for the input guys, point taken. I am on a budget so just checkin my options but definitely want to make it to last
As someone who is going through these things as well, do what you can to save your money and do it the right way…ONCE. I promise you don’t want to do this project and regret any of it when done. You don’t want any “well I should have done so and so”…take your time and save the money to do it right!
Wadmalaw native
16’ Bentz-Craft Flats Boat
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Got 2 of the stringers out today. Wondering about whether I should leave the last one until I get the other 2 and transom done to help keep the shape of the hull. I’ve read other guy’s posts that did that.
It doesn’t feel too flimsy at this point, the trailer has 4 bunks on the bottom and I squeezed the 2 on the sides in tight. Most of the cap is still in place as well, I’m just worried about getting it out of shape.
Any thoughts?
I took all of mine out at once. Right or wrong… It worked fine. I just made sure I supported it as much as I could given what I had to work with.
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Just got the transom out. Trimmed around the edges with metal/wood blade on multitool. Scraper blade is a must to get the wood that is still stuck to the outer skin.
Screw the hammer and chisel. 
I should be able to use the half of the transom that came out in one piece as a template. Very happy bout that.
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So today I got the last stringer out. Guess now the fun begins with the grinder.
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When I get ready to glue the transom in do I need to put a layer of cloth over this hairy stuff, or maybe coat it with resin, or just leave it be since I’ll be spreading the glue all over it anyway?
I would put some west systems epoxy resin all over that raw glass.
Wadmalaw native
16’ Bentz-Craft Flats Boat