High tide floor repair

quote:
Scraper blade is a must to get the wood that is still stuck to the outer skin. Screw the hammer and chisel.

Two words, air chisel :wink:

I would sand those hairs down as well as possible, then give them a coat of epoxy resin. Let that cure and sand it again. That will knock off the hairs. The thickened epoxy glue should fill in any minor gaps. you don’t need any glass over that before the wood goes in.

Capt. Larry Teuton
Swamp Worshiper

Thanks for the replies guys. Got another question about drain tubes.

I’ve seen other guys use a garboard style plug attached to pvc pipe covered in resin. I guess that’d be ideal but I like the plug on the inside.

Originally it had a brass tube. Suppose I could use the same but I hate to buy a $30 flaring tool just to use once.

Anyone have ideas on rigging a homemade tool or another alternative?

Borrow the tool.

Where are you located, I may be able to help with that one. I even have a few flanged drain tubes left over…

Wadmalaw native
16’ Bentz-Craft Flats Boat

quote:
Originally it had a brass tube. Suppose I could use the same but I hate to buy a $30 flaring tool just to use once.

Anyone have ideas on rigging a homemade tool or another alternative?


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I’ve got a flaring tool I will loan you. I’ve got both sizes, 1" and 1 1/4".

Capt. Larry Teuton
Swamp Worshiper

Thanks guys. I live in Manning and work in Orangeburg. I’ll definitely reach out to you when I get to that point

Shoot me a PM with your address and I’ll be glad to mail it to you. Just send it back when you are finished with it. No problem. I probably have some drain tubes too. I’ll look.

Capt. Larry Teuton
Swamp Worshiper

http://www.walmart.com/ip/42209752?wmlspartner=wlpa&selectedSellerId=0&adid=22222222227029935941&wl0=&wl1=g&wl2=c&wl3=64077031209&wl4=pla-101608175049&wl5=9010567&wl6=&wl7=&wl8=&wl9=pla&wl10=8175035&wl11=online&wl12=42209752&wl13=&veh=sem

A Pro tip on that sanding glass in the summertime or anytime. Coat down with Gold Bond or Baby powder before you start. Yea - look like Casper> The glass dust doesn’t get in your pores as bad and washes off much better with less itch!! It works.

J Ford

quote:
Originally posted by jford

A Pro tip on that sanding glass in the summertime or anytime. Coat down with Gold Bond or Baby powder before you start. Yea - look like Casper> The glass dust doesn’t get in your pores as bad and washes off much better with less itch!! It works.

J Ford


Not when you sweat as much as I do…it just makes a mess. Tyvek suit and respirator and just enduring it seems to be best for me.

Wadmalaw native
16’ Bentz-Craft Flats Boat

quote:
Originally posted by jford

A Pro tip on that sanding glass in the summertime or anytime. Coat down with Gold Bond or Baby powder before you start. Yea - look like Casper> The glass dust doesn’t get in your pores as bad and washes off much better with less itch!! It works.

J Ford

Absolutely…clogs the pores where the fiberglass gets in. Get one of those big fans from Sams…worth the money.


There is a video out there about an old guy that does fiber glassing(fixed a turtle shell). He uses treated lumber and cheap plywood for projects but you have to let it dry for a couple of weeks. Epoxy is expensive. Vinylester resin is what I use. Fir is the choice for wood if you got the money.
I’ve used both and neither has failed. I barrier coated the bottom of a 25 Bertram with epoxy and it cost a bunch. You can’t lay other resins on epoxy once you do, as far as I understand.

Structural repairs = epoxy
Cosmetic repairs = polyester or vinylester

Wadmalaw native
16’ Bentz-Craft Flats Boat

quote:
Originally posted by leadenwahboy

Structural repairs = epoxy
Cosmetic repairs = polyester or vinylester

Wadmalaw native
16’ Bentz-Craft Flats Boat


I think you'll find it harder to tie in to the epoxy. Maybe someone else knows a trick...I don't. I'm pretty cheap after the barrier coat expense and epoxy is temperamental and cooks off fast in the heat. I've put my mixing pot in water to cool it while I'm laying glass and still screwed it up.
quote:
Structural repairs = epoxy Cosmetic repairs = polyester or vinylester

What he said.

Capt. Larry Teuton
Swamp Worshiper

Epoxy is structural, polyester is not. Epoxy will bond to polyester, or dang near anything else. Polyester will not bond to epoxy. Even gel coat doesn’t like epoxy.

Capt. Larry Teuton
Swamp Worshiper

I’ve tried baby powder but it didn’t work for me. I just sweated it all off. Haven’t even been wearing sleeves lately. Getting used to the itch:slightly_smiling_face:
I will be using a tyvek and respirator for grinding.

Found a local hardware store that I can order marine ply from and I will probably be using epoxy.

This boat is gonna break me so I want to make it to last.

quote:
Originally posted by Budman14

This boat is gonna break me so I want to make it to last.


That was where I came to as well. If you’re going to do this, do it right. I promise you when you’re done, you won’t want to do it again. If you have any desire to keep the boat forever, or at least for a while, do it right. If you can’t afford to do it right right now, save your money and wait until you can. The boat deserves it.

Wadmalaw native
16’ Bentz-Craft Flats Boat

You can probably do better by ordering it yourself direct from a supplier. I’ve bought over 100 sheets from here, and every one perfect.

http://plywood.boatbuildercentral.com/

Also have bought some from here that was excellent quality.

http://www.worldpanel.com/

Shipping from either is only about $100 to Savannah, probably about the same to Charleston, and it doesn’t matter if you buy 1 sheet or 20, shipping cost is the same.

Capt. Larry Teuton
Swamp Worshiper

Oh…the memories.

Looking good bud man.

I have some pedestal mounts from my boat if you need any.