My son’s 1999 Chevy S10 needs an idler arm and one tie rod replaced. I can pay a shop over $300 to do the job or buy the parts for around $50 and do it myself. I know I will need to have it professionally aligned when I am done but, I think I can do the parts replacement. Has anyone tackled such a job, any hazards?
Thanks
“Apathy is the Glove into Which Evil Slips It’s Hand”.
easy job. You’ll probably have a little struggle getting the tapered ball joints to break free. Some heat from a propane torch and a sharp whack with a hammer and it will break free.
Borrow the tool from the parts place for free. It will be a whole lot easier than doing it the old fashioned way. Most just require a deposit that you’ll get back when you return it. Also get the Haynes manual or Chilton’s. They are a lifesaver and will give you step by step instructions. It’s not that hard.
Don’t forget a ball joint separator. If you are changing out the ends, they were probably factory riveted. You may have to drill out the old rivets. No big deal. Probably take three quarters of a day or less and no where near three hundred.
Avoid the parts house brands. Go with quality Moog brand parts or similar. They are well worth the few extra dollars in the long run.
Carolina Skiff J14, 25 Merc
Hydra Sport 1800cc, 150 Johnson
The Duralast parts at AutoZone are made for them by Moog.
Boat drinks, Waitress I need 2 more boat drinks!
Maybe. I know most of the parts houses have their own brands so they can purchase surplus and overstock parts and rebadge them as their own brand and sell at lower prices. One week you may get a Moog the next it might be TRW and the next it may be a super cheap junk one. I have not dealt much with AutoZone so I can’t speak for them 100% but I know this to be true with Oreillys and Advance.
Carolina Skiff J14, 25 Merc
Hydra Sport 1800cc, 150 Johnson
Go to You Tube and enter “Idler arm replacement Chevy S 10” and you’ll find about a dozen videos showing you how to do it. Its amazing how many instructional videos you can find on You Tube. I’ve used them for numerous projects, everything from maintaining my own boat motor, replacing the main seal on my explorer, to installing new windows on my house.
Key West 1520
70 Yami
She’s little, but she’s pretty, skinny and fast.
Avoid the parts house brands. Go with quality Moog brand parts or similar. They are well worth the few extra dollars in the long run.
Carolina Skiff J14, 25 Merc
Hydra Sport 1800cc, 150 Johnson
The Duralast parts at AutoZone are made for them by Moog.
Boat drinks, Waitress I need 2 more boat drinks!
Maybe. I know most of the parts houses have their own brands so they can purchase surplus and overstock parts and rebadge them as their own brand and sell at lower prices. One week you may get a Moog the next it might be TRW and the next it may be a super cheap junk one. I have not dealt much with AutoZone so I can’t speak for them 100% but I know this to be true with Oreillys and Advance.
Carolina Skiff J14, 25 Merc
Hydra Sport 1800cc, 150 Johnson
I hate O’R for that simple reason. I’d rather buy old parts from Rock Auto than deal with them.
AutoZone is top notch. They are huge nation wide and have strong purchasing ability with top manufacturers. I work for Dayco and we sell them a little over $50M a year in belts, tensioners and hoses. We sell them our premium line, standard line, and do their private brand.
We are in the process of putting Dayco in Car Quest stores as well.
DF, the worse that could happen is you get it apart and can’t get it back together and have to have it towed! Then your son will be pissed and you will have to let him drive your truck[:0] That’s about all
Don’t forget a ball joint separator. If you are changing out the ends, they were probably factory riveted. You may have to drill out the old rivets. No big deal. Probably take three quarters of a day or less and no where near three hundred.
No rivets on tie rod ends…
You tube is amazing for how-to videos.
DFreedom, I agree on getting it aligned after doing it. If you have to drive it a bit to get to an alignment shop, wrap string tight around all four tires and adjust the toe accordingly. That’s how it was done in the old days. Gets you pretty close.
Luckily my son isn’t currently driving the truck as he is away at school and can’t have a car freshman year. Since it is just sitting, I am trying to fix a few things to get a few more years out of it. It is low miles (only 57,000) so it should last a little while longer.
Peapod, if something bad “happens”, I’ll instruct my wife to post it here so you’ll know. I don’t want you to wonder and worry.
I’ll have to look into that “string technique” Fred. Never heard of that before.
“Apathy is the Glove into Which Evil Slips It’s Hand”.