So if you were to build the perfict cooler what would it have?
What size? 48,120,240 QT
roto molded like yeti and ict-tek?or blow molded like an Egloo
gasket seal? or friction seal(no seal)
Rope handles? hard handle?
wheels on one end?
garden hose size drain plug? 3/4 npt
continious ss hange with backing plate ? or 2 or 4 ss hinges?
positive ss draw down latches? or rubber hood latches?
ice capicity for 5-10 days
rubber corner feet or full rubber strips on bottom?
And how much would you pay for that cooler knowing the roto mold and all ss hardware add tremendiously to the price or would you prefer to just buy another cooler at wal-mart every other year and not spend as much $
And what warranty should this cooler have on it?
Just looking for a an honest answer.
Jeff
Look at the boxes that Cabellas have! Got a catalog last week “nice”
To me that’s over thinking it but… what’s your budget? I really like the Igloo Marine coolers in any size. The Yeti is awesome. All coolers keep it cold longer if you throw in a bag of sacrafical ice the day before to prechill them. Also get all your drinks cold in the fridge before adding them to the cooler. I like to 5200 rubber feet to the bottom and a cutting board on top of the lid. If getting an Igloo or similar type go ahead and remove their cheap hinges and replace them with sections of a disgarded garden hose split one time longways. I also like to remove the interior lid strap and replace with a SS hatch spring so the lid will stay open when you want it to. Yeti requires no modification except for the hatch spring.
“Temptation may lean on the doorbell… opportunity may only knock once”
if you got the budget the yeti is the way to go. I just got mine and love it. The cushion on top is very nice as well.
Thanks,
Paul
GW 257 Advance
I like my 270qt icey-tek, works great on the boat, fits perfect in the back of the truck for tailgating. You can spray foam the lids of “cheaper coolers” for better insulation too get a similar effect. All about how much money you have to spend and what you need the most.
I guss I asked the wrong question.
If a cooler was made locally exactly like a yeti(roto molded) with all ss hardware with a better latch what size and what would it be worth to you? knowing it could be your last cooler you would have to buy if no one stole it. and possably guaranteed for the life of the cooler?
Jeff
quote:
Originally posted by jjfishingI guss I asked the wrong question.
If a cooler was made locally exactly like a yeti(roto molded) with all ss hardware with a better latch what size and what would it be worth to you? knowing it could be your last cooler you would have to buy if no one stole it. and possably guaranteed for the life of the cooler?
Jeff
A 48 and a 120qt each.
Mark
Mako 262 Twin Yammaha F200s
Yeah, but do you consider a dog to be a filthy animal? I wouldn’t go so far as to call a dog filthy but they’re definitely dirty. But, a dog’s got personality. Personality goes a long way.
“Life’s tough…It’s even tougher if you’re stupid” John Wayne
quote:
Originally posted by jjfishingI guss I asked the wrong question.
If a cooler was made locally exactly like a yeti(roto molded) with all ss hardware with a better latch what size and what would it be worth to you? knowing it could be your last cooler you would have to buy if no one stole it. and possably guaranteed for the life of the cooler?
Jeff
How can you improve the yeti latch system? I prefer it over the competive coolers’ like engel’s. I’m talking about the tundra series.
Drain should not stick out past vertical side exterior.
Neoprene corner feet.
Rubber lid seal…
Seadek pads for top offered cheaper than the prices other brands want for a top cushion or pad.
Mold the hinge into the plastic and use a continuous rod. Don’t use a piano hinge. Again see yeti.
Do not use screws anywhere on the cooler. Mold in everything and use stainless thru pins with retainer clips for the hinges and latch mounts. See yeti but use clips and stainless.
Urethane foam as thick as possible should go without saying. Should not be heavy foam. The air gap and seal are most important. Thickness and density Matter. Cheap seal makes all the foam useless though. I cannot open the lid on my yeti if I throw ice in and shut the lid down for a few hours. Vacuum sealed. Have to unscrew the drain, which you should copy, in order to release vacuum on lid. The drain on the yeti is also more durable and functional than competitors.
You sell all that for the same price point as a yeti with the upgrades and lifetime warranty then I will buy only your coolers and tell everyone else to do the same. You will grow fast and put jobs in our community with just a little marketing. Plenty room for better mousetrap for the price point that folks are obviously willing to pay. I think you will have a hard time asking for a h
Agree with the 48 and 120, but also a bigger (250-270) that fits sideways in the back of a full-size truck (won’t sell as many of these because not everybody needs a huge cooler, or at least you haven’t convinced them that they do yet.) Price = comparable to quality
I agree with the 48qt. but feel a second size should be bigger than 120qt. Possibly a 150-180. I have a 40 and 165 I take all the time and they are the most functional sizes. Price is key as many will not or cannot justify insane costs when wally world has such decent price and selection. That said, I do have an Icey-Tek which I freakin love, but only one due to Boater’s World going under. I did recently notice that hpcoolers.com is returning them to the states, so you might be able to get some ideas from their offerings. Just my two cents. . . maybe not even worth that.
“Proper Prior Planning Prevents Piss Poor Performance”
Build a 48 and a 120 like Phin said, send them to me and I’ll give you honest ■■■■■■■■.
PM me and I’ll give you the address…
BG
I just picked up a 35qt Engel and haven’t had much to complain about yet. Once I’m able to put it through the ringer, I’ll be sure to give some ■■■■■■■■ as to what improvements can be made.
-Capt. Chris Rapchick
yella bote
no motor
Best cooler ever is one that you don’t have your kids opening and closing the lid a million times a day:smiley: Yeti’s don’t even like that.
< Evil is simply the absence of God >
I want my cooler to be used as the forward seat, right in front of the console. It needs to be rough and tough and strong enough to sit on with a cushion on top. I’ll want to bungee it down. While I want it sturdy, I don’t want it so thick I can’t put anything in it.
I want my wife to be able pick it up and pass it off the boat at the house.
What size? 120 qt.
roto molded like yeti and ict-tek?or blow molded like an Egloo - it needs to fit the cooler mount brackets that are currently available.
gasket seal? or friction seal(no seal) - tight and easy to clean
Rope handles? hard handle? - I like hard handles, makes it easier to bungee down
wheels on one end? - not a bad idea for larger sizes
garden hose size drain plug? 3/4 npt - yes
continious ss hange with backing plate ? or 2 or 4 ss hinges? - anything but those sorry Igloo hingles that break all the time.
positive ss draw down latches? or rubber hood latches? Anything that do not break like the Igloos latchesice capicity for 5-10 days - a couple of days is fine…it needs to be able to hold a good volume for it’s size…you can make a cooler so thick, you can’t put very much inside.
rubber corner feet or full rubber strips on bottom? - either, not a deal breaker.
And how much would you pay for that cooler knowing the roto mold and all ss hardware add tremendiously to the price or would you prefer to just buy another cooler at wal-mart every other year and not spend as much $200-$300
And what warranty should this cooler have on it? 10 year.
If you are thinking of going into the business of building coolers, best of luck…if the price is right I’m going to be in the market for a cool this summer or fall. Let us know.
"I am constantly amazed at the stupidity of t
Looks like igloo just got into the high end cooler game.
Check out the igloo Yukon series. Just saw one at West marine,
Very nice, very expensive. 70 quart $350.
They are trying to compete with yeti
Thanks for the replies guys.
I’m like everybody else, it’s hard to justify the cost.
If I felt it would be worth the upfront investment to make the molds I would get started, the quality of the cooler out there are so good its hard to improve on the quality so that leaves cost, I don’t know yet what the standard markup is on a cooler but without national advertising and expensive packaging there is some room for cost savings,I can always advertise here on Charlestonfishing and other sites and hope that we sell enough to pay the bills for the first size molds and proceed from there,
JBM, I looked at them yesterday the big one was 250qt $749.00
and massive in size, it seemed to be a thinner outer shell then the SSI that they also have in the store,the drain on that thing was
1-5/8 across the threads with a nice big o-ring.
Claim, a 120rotomolded cooler with nothing in would weigh in the 40-50 lb range I’m guessing and rotomold is what you would want for a seat or to stand on for big guys but if you want light weight you’ll need a blowmold cooler. As for the corner brackets they are all standard I would assume?
- make it lightweigt…the yetis are too freakin heavy
- make a marine igloo with…four straps to attach lid like yeti or use a piano hinge without crappy screws to strip out.
- lid removal healpful for cleaning, pouring ice into fish and drink boxes and prevents hinges from being stressed.
- add bottle opener
- drink holder
- built in rings in bottom to secure to truck or boat
Make it in 48, 80 , 120 qt., and 1/2 price of yeti or make it customized color or way to include boat name, serial number, and or way to make it to ugly to steal!
quote:
Originally posted by jjfishingThanks for the replies guys.
I’m like everybody else, it’s hard to justify the cost.
If I felt it would be worth the upfront investment to make the molds I would get started, the quality of the cooler out there are so good its hard to improve on the quality so that leaves cost, I don’t know yet what the standard markup is on a cooler but without national advertising and expensive packaging there is some room for cost savings,I can always advertise here on Charlestonfishing and other sites and hope that we sell enough to pay the bills for the first size molds and proceed from there,
JBM, I looked at them yesterday the big one was 250qt $749.00
and massive in size, it seemed to be a thinner outer shell then the SSI that they also have in the store,the drain on that thing was
1-5/8 across the threads with a nice big o-ring.
Claim, a 120rotomolded cooler with nothing in would weigh in the 40-50 lb range I’m guessing and rotomold is what you would want for a seat or to stand on for big guys but if you want light weight you’ll need a blowmold cooler. As for the corner brackets they are all standard I would assume?
Check out what the boys in Texas are doing with their Brute Box. These guys have a cooler that beats the Yeti and Engel in price and looks very nice. It’s tough and holds ice for 5 days. You do something like theirs and you’d do great.
http://www.bruteoutdoors.com/categories/Brute-Box-Coolers/
Give me a time line when you’ll have some protypes for sale and I won’t get a Brute. I’m looking at the Brute 90 for size.
You’ll also notice the Yeti and Engel use similar tie down systems. You could make your tie down systems compatible with other coolers/systems. Even make your box compatible with their cushions until you can get into that market too
Claim, that cooler look very clean.They have a nice product, I like the video’s. timeline wise I’m meeting whith the mold maker later this week to talk about design and I’ll have a better idea on the prototype dates.I would expect 2 months for a mold.
Jeff
quote:
Originally posted by jjfishingClaim, that cooler look very clean.They have a nice product, I like the video’s. timeline wise I’m meeting whith the mold maker later this week to talk about design and I’ll have a better idea on the prototype dates.I would expect 2 months for a mold.
Jeff
I can wait that long, I’m in no hurry. On the Brute, I think they could have added a half inch to the lid thickness or at least beefed up the edges of the lid so a snap could be screwed into place. If you look at the video after the fat boy jumped on it, you can see some denting of the lid surface…not terrible but some. Since I’m going to use it as a seat, I’m more concerned with the ability to snap on a cushion.
On their lid, I like their lid locks - I think the Engel is similar. It allows you to face the lid opening toward the console which would avoid the lid being blown open while on the open road or at speed if no one is sitting on the cooler.
Keep us up to date on your designs…it’s gonna be pretty cool to see you start a new cooler business. Best of luck.
“I am constantly amazed at the stupidity of the general public.”
~my dad
Equipment:
190cc Sea Pro w/130 Johnson
1- 17 year old
1 - 13 year old
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