I live in spartanburg and just got in to inshore fishing just wanted to get some of y’all’s ideas on some nice spinning rods for all around inshore fishing but dont wanna break the bank. Thanks
Race Ready Fishing
What’s your price range and targeted species? Trout, reds, flounder, sheepshead?
Redfish Baron Extraordinaire
Go Ugly
Ugly sticks come in all shapes and sizes and are reasonable. Make sure the reel is suited for salt water.
220 Outrage
250 Verado
What’s the advantage of the really expensive rods/reals ($200+). I know I have seem some rods alone that go for over $600, I just can’t imagine spending that much on a single rod. My wife bought a nice St. Croix rod a few weeks back for $80, and that is probably the most expensive rod I have ever bought. I decided to go with a slightly more expensive rod because a couple of my other rods had eyes that broke.
180 Pioneer Islander
Go Tigers!</div id=“left”>
Penn Battle 2000 or 3000 combo.
I prefer the 2000 with 10lb braid. It’s lighter and fits my hand better for all day casting. The stem also seems to be the correct length to allow jigging and twitching the rod while also giving a good brace when they hit.
I have tried and am still using:
Penn Fierce 2000 and 3000 combos in the $90 range
Penn Persuit 3000 and 4000 combos in the $75 range
Penn Battle 2000 combos in the $120 range
The Battle series are definately worth the extra money.
I tend to over do things so I went real simple. If it’s not a combo from the manufacturer, I dont want it.
The Battle rods have 8 eyes, good action, and enough backbone to handle 36" reds.
The differences in rods price wise usually comes down to the components (graphite, reel seats, guides) that it is made of… This directly correlates with the sensitivity, and particular fishing characteristics of that rod…
This will not matter to some folks, and therefore wouldn’t be worth the money to them… to Other people it makes the world of difference.
If you primarily fish bait (live/dead) then you don’t need a sensitive rod… not often that fish don’t swallow bait…
But if you prefer to fish artificials you need as much sensitivity as you can get… you also will be casting all day, so weight becomes an issue… Of course you could fish your artificials with something like an ugly stik, butyou could also paddle your boat around all day instead of buying an engine…
So in short… to make a rod light, sensitive, and strong requires good materials… those cost money…
The trick is to determine what you will be doing with the rod 90% of the time… buy a rod that suits that purpose… If artificials is what you do however… buy the best rod you can afford that gives you the most sensitivity you can get… it makes all the difference in the world…
Mad Mike
"to hell with insane… I’m OUTsane!!! "
quote:
Originally posted by 00seaproRRfor all around inshore fishing but dont wanna break the bank.
1-piece Shakespeare “InterCoastal” Ugly Stick.
$35-40 at Walmart.
http://www.walmart.com/ip/Shakespeare-Ugly-Stik-Intercoastal-Spinning-Rod/895172
You can get it shipped to the store for free if you don’t want to drive all around town looking for the right one.
Semper Fi
18’ Sterling
115 Yamaha
Big Ugly Homemade Blue Push Pole
quote:
Originally posted by Mad_MikeThe differences in rods price wise usually comes down to the components (graphite, reel seats, guides) that it is made of… This directly correlates with the sensitivity, and particular fishing characteristics of that rod…
This will not matter to some folks, and therefore wouldn’t be worth the money to them… to Other people it makes the world of difference.
If you primarily fish bait (live/dead) then you don’t need a sensitive rod… not often that fish don’t swallow bait…
But if you prefer to fish artificials you need as much sensitivity as you can get… you also will be casting all day, so weight becomes an issue… Of course you could fish your artificials with something like an ugly stik, butyou could also paddle your boat around all day instead of buying an engine…
So in short… to make a rod light, sensitive, and strong requires good materials… those cost money…
The trick is to determine what you will be doing with the rod 90% of the time… buy a rod that suits that purpose… If artificials is what you do however… buy the best rod you can afford that gives you the most sensitivity you can get… it makes all the difference in the world…
Mad Mike
"to hell with insane… I’m OUTsane!!! "
Well said, couldn’t agree more.
I use a Calcutta 200 on a $180 TFO rod and a Stradic CI4+ on a $180 TFO rod for all of my artificial casting. I like the smoothness, lightweight, sensitivity, and drag.
For fishing live bait, I use Shimano Sahara reels on a Calico Jack $70 rod and another rod under $100.
“Banana Pants”
Indigo Bay 170
90 Johnson
Wilderness Ride 115
Mister Mad Mike is right on the money. I fish both cut bait and artificials. For cut bait, a 4000 size reel and a 7 foot ugly stik works beutifully. However, try casting a zman all day with it. Not possible. A 3000 size reel with a quality light action rod such as St Croix or Shimano will save lots of casting wear on the wrists. For casting, you need as flexible of a tip as you can get, but with enough backbone lower in the rod to turn a fish. The flexible tip allows you to flip light baits far, accurately, and with less fatigue. Casting rod must also be light in weight.
I have 4 coastal inshore daiwa 7’ rods ($89 online), and could not be happier with them. I use the med action for popping corks and the med light for artificials and jig heads. I use Penn Sargus and Battle 4000’s. Some will say 4000 is too big, but I respectfully disagree. When you hook into a 28" red or something bigger you will be glad you have the 4000, and it does not feel like overkill with a 14 incher either.
Mike, Geronimo, & Smokerman are some smart cookies.
While I’ve never seen a $600 inshore rod, I have built some fairly pricey ones (as well as some more moderately priced ones…although NEVER under $100). Casting for many inshore species, I really like popping blanks. They are the king mackerel rods of inshore fishing (very light tips with strong backbones). You can build a rod that weighs well under 4oz which aids in all-day castability.
Battle 3000 with a falcon coastal medium 7’ rod for trout and reds. They tend not to have falcon rods down here though. 4000 is way too big for artificials, but a 2000 may work…I feel the 3000 is just right for artificial! I’m from Spartanburg too, but I live in Charleston now.
Penn Battle 3000, just picked one up last week and love it. I plan on getting 3 more!
'90 Maverick Master Angler 18.5/'03 150 Evinrude
'05 Angler 27 CC
I like the Ugly Stik Intercoastals as well for a good all around rod under $50. For fishing live/dead bait agree with whats been said, rod isnt as important. I use up to 5000 size reels inshore for bait fishing with no noticable difference between sizes. For artificials I’d go 2000/3000 though.
Sorry for hijacking half of this thread, but thanks for all of the input!
180 Pioneer Islander
Go Tigers!</div id=“left”>
quote:
Originally posted by DirtyOarsBattle 3000 with a falcon coastal medium 7’ rod for trout and reds. They tend not to have falcon rods down here though. 4000 is way too big for artificials, but a 2000 may work…I feel the 3000 is just right for artificial! I’m from Spartanburg too, but I live in Charleston now.
Charleston Angler in Mt Pleasant has a good selection of Falcons. As others have said, there’s no real gain from an expensive rod if you’re chucking bait but if you throw artificials, there’s a perfect rod for every situation.
Okuma Trio 30s ,Okuma EVx rod.I fish over 125 days a year,with customers,and have never had any issues.Trios have 18 lbs of drag and are so lite.Okuma has the best customer service,and when they say its warrantied,it is.
Those Okuma Trio’s look nice, and look to be engineered much like the Penn Battle series. Only problem I see is to save $20 on a reel, you have to mail it in or service, vs. Haddrells will do warranty service locally. Not sure, but doesn’t Haddrells give you an extra warranty on their Penn stuff?
Still I like those Okuma reels, and as a person that services their own reels, I might get a couple for bait fishing
Just don’t get caught up in the hype of a lot of bearings on these. They put 2 bearings in the handle knob, and a stack of 3 in the spool. So 5 of the 9 bearings are for spinning the knob and the spool when drag is being let out. Keep the spool bearings clean, or else they will be the first to need service. Not sure how well the waterproof retainer keeps water out, esp. with braid since my reels are usually soaked from all the water that makes it back to the reel with braid.
The rest of the bearings are located in the usual places as Penn. Line roller, 2 on the gear, and one on the pinion. But Penn uses 2 pinion bearings for support, which to me is way more important than bearings in the knob.
Also Okuma doesn’t use carbon fiber drag washers like Penn does. Huge difference.
EDIT: Looks like these reels sell for a good bit less than their website list price. $60 is a great deal on these reels. Me personally I would replace the drag washers with carbon washers for about $10 and take them apart 1-2 times a year and keep all those bearings oiled. Should last just as long as any other $100 Shimano or Penn reel.
“Banana Pants”
Indigo Bay 170
90 Johnson
Wilderness Ride 115
Personally I feel that if you are just getting into inshore you should probably get you a nice lower priced rod with a size like 2000 or 3000 as you will likely get another one you like better after you get more experience and build a preference. There are a lot of variances that you should base your choice off of, like if your rod will be used for casting artificial baits or live/cut bait. If you want it to be able to cast 1/8 ounce lure it probably won’t be any good to be casting heavy bottom rigs. I have had a lot of different rods under a 100 that where good and you will have plenty to choose from in the range of 40 to 150. The post above contains some good information and brands to choose from and should help in your choice and all of the brands worked well for me. One of my favorite rod and reels I have/ have had is a 45 dollar black and gold Okuma combo, light, lots of feel, long casting and my favorite sounding drag.
17ft Key west
I would like stay below $75 and yes all the species u mentioned
quote:
Originally posted by 23SailfishWhat’s your price range and targeted species? Trout, reds, flounder, sheepshead?
Redfish Baron Extraordinaire
Race Ready Fishing