I took the boat out today. When you go to idle speed, it’ll idle for 2 or 3 mins. then start to sputter…starving for fuel. You can pump the bulb ( using it as a fuel pump ) and the motor smooths out and it’ll trottle up from idle. If you don’t use the bulb it’ll cut off. It’ll start rght back up but you’ll have to prime it to get it faster than idle speed.
Towoard the end of a frustating day it started straving for fuel at 1\2 speed…had to pump the bulb and like before after that you can give the gas and it’ll go.
Sounds like it sucking air or the fuel pump is going out… I looked for a fuel pump kit but can’t find one for a 2000 Johnson 250 hp Ocean Pro…any ideas about this problem…?
2000 Sea Pro 255 CC w250hp Johnson Ocean Pro
" Always have a plan. "
If the bulb is spongy and you can feel the air gurling in it then you are sucking in air.
Iain Pelto
Edgewater 185CC “Jumpin’ Bean II”
When I got back from the lake today I was still trying to find the problem and I couldn’t get the bulb to firm up at all…you COULD hear the fuel in the line move back and forth. The bulb never would firm up.
It has to be sucking air from some where. Tomorrow I’m going to check the pulse hose that runs from the backside of the fuel pump to the crankcase…it could be cracked or loose.
Any other ideas…?
2000 Sea Pro 255 CC w250hp Johnson Ocean Pro
" Always have a plan. "
if you can feel the fuel move back and forth, its probably a bad bulb
hook it up to a portable tank and do a test run, and see if its a boat or motor problem
I’m now at www.teamcharlestonmarine.com
I’ll do the remote tank test.
I’ve just replaced the bulb and fuel line going from the bulb to the tank \ fuel line from the bulb going to the fuel water separator a couple weeks ago trying to correct the same problem. Yesterday was the first time I had the boat in the water since then…same issue. I guess it still could be a( another ) bad bulb though…
The remote tank test will eliminate the boat or the motor. This is a frustrating problem. Thanks for the advise - anyone else…?
2000 Sea Pro 255 CC w250hp Johnson Ocean Pro
" Always have a plan. "
My 90hp Johnny is in the shop for the same thing right now. I will tell you as soon as I find out.
SeaPro… I’d appricate that… Thanks.
2000 Sea Pro 255 CC w250hp Johnson Ocean Pro
" Always have a plan. "
I bought a Selco manual for 1998 - 2001 Johnson outboards. I have a 2000 Johnson 250hp Ocean Pro.
It has alot of information about everything but it doesn’t give the fuel pump pressure at certain RPMs for my motor. It gives it for other motors but not the 250hp.
Does anyhave those specs. for a 2000 Johnson 250 Ocean Pro fuel pump…? Thanks.
2000 Sea Pro 255 CC w250hp Johnson Ocean Pro
" Always have a plan. "
Chris V…
I ran the portable test tank test and the problem is on the motor side. I removed the inline fuel filter right at the fuel pump and connected the test fuel line there. The motor still doesn’t want to idle and is starving - you pump the bulb and it smoothes right out - wait a min. and it does the same thing.
I removed and inspected the pulse hose from the back bottom of the fuel pump to the crankcase - it’s clear and in good shape. All vaccum lines look new and in good shape. No apparent leaks - very minor fuel residue at fittings.
I don’t know the fuel pump pressure specs. at certain RPMs…the Seloc manual I have doesn’t give info. for my specific motor.
If I need a fuel pump I’ll get a non VRO since the oil injection system has been removed.
Is there any other way to isolate the fuel pump as the culprit…? Do you suspect a fuel pump failure by what I’ve explained…? Anyone else… Thanks.
2000 Sea Pro 255 CC w250hp Johnson Ocean Pro
" Always have a plan. "
We believe solved the problem of rough idle - fuel starvation and motor dying out after 1 to 2 mins. of idle.
When I bought the boat the VRO had already been disabled - oil line plugged and the four wires cut at fuel pump. We decided today o take the fuel pump off to look for anything obvious - cracked diaphram, etc… We didn’t find that…but…when we took the front plate of the fuel pump off ( 4 screws that hold the oil pump part of the pump ) there’s a small chrome needle there at the top with an 1\4" orange o-ring on it. The o-ring looked alittle worn and there’s a lot of fuel pressure on that o-ring from the back. We pumped the bulb and the chrome needle and orange washer blew out across the driveway. Since that was part of oil side of the fuel pump I took the needle \ o-ring out and plugged the hole.
Put the cover and 4 screws back in - ran the motor for 10 mins. and it ran like new - no sputtering - no starvation and no cutting off. I then removed the plug re-installed the worn o-ring with needle - after 2 mins. it ran like crap ( cut off ) again… Re-plugged the hole - re-installed the cover with 4 screws - ran it 10 mins more…ran like a champ.
Problem solved…I hope…! I feel good about it though…we’ll see.
Small o-rings = a world of frustration.
2000 Sea Pro 255 CC w250hp Johnson Ocean Pro
" Always have a plan. "
Why were the wires “cut” instead of just unplugging the the VRO?
quote:
Why were the wires "cut" instead of just unplugging the the VRO?
Good question and wondered the same thing… I don’t have a clue.
2000 Sea Pro 255 CC w250hp Johnson Ocean Pro
" Always have a plan. "
glad it was an easy fix
I’m now at www.teamcharlestonmarine.com
For anyone interested here’s a cut away of a Johnson VRO fuel pump…
My " sucking air " problem was the chrome pin w\orange o-ring located at the top right of the pump going between the oil chamber and the oil pump piston area. My VRO is disabled so I just plugged the that hole.
This a good cut-away view - it may help someone else with a similar problem.
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2000 Sea Pro 255 CC w250hp Johnson Ocean Pro
" Always have a plan. "
Mine was the fuel pump. I do not pre-mix so I replaced the whole pump. Seems like it would be a lot of trouble to pre-mix that much fuel.
quote:
Mine was the fuel pump. I do not pre-mix so I replaced the whole pump. Seems like it would be a lot of trouble to pre-mix that much fuel.
I guess you could say my problem was the oil pump part of the fuel pump. Good to hear you got your’s repaired.
It’s not really a problem to pre-mix - every 50 gals. of gas I put in 1 gal. of oil. It’s equals about 2.5 +- oz. of oil per gal. of gas.
It the VRO had not been disabled when I bought the boat I probably would have used it but since I’m not sure why it was disabled I’ll just pre-mix and not take a chance with it…
Anyway…we’re ready to go …!
2000 Sea Pro 255 CC w250hp Johnson Ocean Pro
" Always have a plan. "
I sealed off the VRO part of the pump - replaced the primer ball - replaced fuel lines from tank to fuel pump - new Atwood fuel filter - new Atwood fuel\water separator filter - new plugs - drained all carb bowls ( ne trash ) - de carbed the engine - checked the compression, they’re all within 10 psi of eachother and all in the 108 to 115 psi range.
Took the boat off shore two weeks ago - ran fine @ WOT and anything above 8 mph… Anything below that speed, it didn’t want to run - you’d have to pump the ball to get it to stay running. It would troll speed for a couple mins then you’d have to pump the ball again. On the way in it ran WOT for 2 hrs…not a problem. Got to the ramp to load the boat and it starts not wanting to stay running ( pump the ball again.( Note: prior to taking it offshore I had taken it to the lake the week before it ran great all day - no problems. I thought I had fixed the problem with a single thing I had done or a combination of things - I was wrong ) A real pain in the butt.
Pulled the trigger on a new non VRO fuel pump last week. Took the boat to the lake today. Ran the boat for 1.5 hrs at all speeds - boat ran great - boat tied to dock for 45 mins. - ran down the lake for 15 mins…boat ran great. Boat sat for 3 to 4 hrs… Could hardly get the motor to start after sitting for the 3 or 4 hrs. - couldn’t seem to get it primed - when I did get it started it would cut off when you gave it trottle. It never ran good the rest of the day - it would hardly run at all.
Obviously the fuel pump isn’t\wasn’t the problem - waste of time and $$$$. This problem, what I think is a fuel problem has been going on since the first of April. The carb. fuel lines look good but I guess I can replace them also. I’ve checked and rechecked for cracks in vac and fuel lines…I’ve not found a bad line yet. Could be a crack in a plastic male nipple somewhere.
Any ideas would be greatly appreciated at this time…I’m at the end of my ideas. It runs good then it doesn’t want to
Trash in the tank maybe?
Can you remove the tank and clean it out?
Happy boatin’ y’all!!
Take it to a mechanic… might save you some money in the long run
Try pumping some fuel from the bottom of the tank. If you’re not running pure gasoline, I’d say that’s where to start. I know Chris V. is going " oh no here he goes again" but I’ve seen so many people, waste so much $$$, on something as simple as draining the tanks, and filling with fresh, 100% pure gasoline and oil. A friend of mine pumped out aprox. 6 gallons of watery, foamy, sludge, from a 35 gallon tank on a 20’ Mako recently. There’s a very limited shelf life on blended fuel, (blended meaning E-10 or such, not oil and gas) so if you’re going to use it, use as much as possible, and start fresh just before you’re next trip. You’ll know right away if this is the problem, when you pump some gas out of the “bottom” of the tank. Cummins, Ive seen you’re posts on the Ethanol-free board, and I’m not suggesting you use blended fuel. I’m just not sure of the boats history, and it does’nt take much E-10 to cause problems! Also there’s a certain amount of fuel on most onboard tanks, that you’ll never get out, by running it out. So you may have a few gallons of the “mess” hanging around in you’re tank. Hope this helps, Scott