I bought this 1648 War Eagle in 1997. It has been a great boat. But she is due for alittle updating. New paint, floors, trim bracket, electronics etc. I have the cmc trim and tilt bracket to put on. Not sure if anyone else uses these but they work great. I bought the first one so that I could duck hunt out of the boat and hit stumps with out destroying the hydraulics on the motor. The motor kicks up and the trim tilt bracket stays in place.
Anyway, what is my best option for the floor? The old floor was plywood and lasted 12 years. I considered aluminum but either I am missing something or that is really going to be a pain.
Also should I leave the starboard dry box in to use as a seat or take it out for the extra floor space. I don’t have 4 people in the boat as much as I use too so I am leaning toward the extra space. The port box is a live well and needs to stay.
Thoughts?
Yo Phin recognize this trailer?? I am using it to do my repairs as it does not have runners along the sides.
Behind this helm stands a sickness that not even a women can cure.
Several years ago, I went fishing with a guide in Georgetown by the name of Gene Dicksion (Delta Guides). He had a War Eagle 1752 (I think) that he had customized. He had a floor but I don’t recall what it was made from. He used a shallow aluminum storage box available from War Eagle that fastened to the floor. He used it for storgae and as a bench seat. It was fastened to the floor in front of the boxed in area like you have in the back of the boat. He also bought a center console from Key West and cut off the bottom to lower it and monted it to the floor. The front had a factory casting deck. I believe he referred to it as a “poor mans flats boat”. We fished 3 grown men with no probs. Had Yamaha 50 or 60 on it. It was a really neat boat. He’s since upgraded several times. He now fishes a Hewes.
I customized my 16’ polar kraft jon boat with a casting platform and floor about a year ago(all marine grade plywood and carpet). You can go alot thinner on the floor wood to keep the extra weight to a minimum (1/4inch should work) and I would seal it a few time to be on the safe side. If you carpet make sure you use waterproof glue.I also cut out the middle seat for convenience. I painting the boat while I was waiting for a new motor recently. To paint it I scuffed it up with 150 gritt, cleaned it up real good,tack cloth, aluminum oxide primer, then I put on a coat of pettit marine paint the guys from boaters world recommended. Everything was rolled on with foam rollers and turned out good. If that is a rivited boat i would recommend sealing or fixing any rivits before hand. Let me know if you have any questions or want me to pm you any info or pics. Hope it helps and good luck!
Thanks…I’ll keep that in mind with the next doll house I build. All I was saying is you don’t need heavy 3/4" plywood on a floor with braces under it. I am just going off a book I have on converting a jon boat to a flats/bass boat. Never had a war eagle…now I know they are all welded. thanks again IM4USC!
I would go to a local metal fab. shop, get some .060 alumium metal sheets. you can cut it with sheers you can buy at lowes. Buy some porivets from lowes and fasten the metal to the cross bracess. You would never have to worry about it again. AND it would be MUCH lighter than putting wood on your boat.
On my 1648 I did it two ways. First with plywood and marine carpet. Way to heavy. Went to a fab shop and got them to cut me a sheet of aluminum to fit. While it was there they put the bend in the middle to follow the hull of the boat. Before fastening to the hull I sandwiched boat floatation between the hull and the aluminum. The aluminum also got covered with marine carpet. IMO this was the best setup out of the two I tried.
Floor from war eagle would probably cost about $350, but I think you would have shipping issues. I just bought a 648 and I think that is how much the floor cost to get added.
Depending on what type of fishing/hunting you do, you might could get by with running a 30" storage box down the same side as your livewell, or one 60"-70" gun box - if it will fit. It would still leave you with plenty of room to walk around. I might know where you can get a 30" storage box if you need one.
Scoutin. Lowes sells 4X8 sheets of styrofoam in various thickness. I bought a couple of sheets that were 1/2 inch thick and cut them so they fit real tight between my ribs. I chose 1/2 inch thick because two layers brought the floor up perfectly level with the top of the ribs. I then covered the entire floor over with an inter-locking 1-foot square plastic garage floor matting. I purchased the matting (gray with diamond plate finish) from Greatmats.com. The foam with mat on top makes the boat alot quieter, easy to wash out, and you never stub your tow on ribs. I would get rid of the front jump seats and get a gun box. War Eagle makes one, so does Bass Pro Shops (alot cheaper at BP), it frees up alot more space, and still gives you plenty of water tight storage. I throw a cooler in when I need the seating.
go buy thick rubber mats and cut them to fit between the bracing. that is the best thing because it doesn’t get hot and it does not rot. it is also real easy to install and soft on your feet.
From reds to marlin you got it.
2001 210 Sea Fox
2009 Yamaha F150
Scoutin. Lowes sells 4X8 sheets of styrofoam in various thickness. I bought a couple of sheets that were 1/2 inch thick and cut them so they fit real tight between my ribs. I chose 1/2 inch thick because two layers brought the floor up perfectly level with the top of the ribs. I then covered the entire floor over with an inter-locking 1-foot square plastic garage floor matting. I purchased the matting (gray with diamond plate finish) from Greatmats.com. The foam with mat on top makes the boat alot quieter, easy to wash out, and you never stub your tow on ribs. I would get rid of the front jump seats and get a gun box. War Eagle makes one, so does Bass Pro Shops (alot cheaper at BP), it frees up alot more space, and still gives you plenty of water tight storage. I throw a cooler in when I need the seating.
The mats don’t come up on you? Did you cut them to fit around the ribs? I would like to see a picture if you have one.
Behind this helm stands a sickness that not even a women can cure.
On my 1648 I did it two ways. First with plywood and marine carpet. Way to heavy. Went to a fab shop and got them to cut me a sheet of aluminum to fit. While it was there they put the bend in the middle to follow the hull of the boat. Before fastening to the hull I sandwiched boat floatation between the hull and the aluminum. The aluminum also got covered with marine carpet. IMO this was the best setup out of the two I tried.
240 Outrage
How much did the aluminum fab cost if you don’t mind me asking? Who did it. How thick aluminum did you use?
Thanks guys!!
Behind this helm stands a sickness that not even a women can cure.
I can call and see. It was about 6 yrs ago and I do not remember how much it was. Still Walter (sp?)did the cutting and bending. I did the install. It really turned out nice. Let me know if you want me to call them.
If want to camo your boat take a look at these folks out of Florence www.styx-river.com. I have used their stencils and the results are excellent. They also offer camo neoprene custom cut mats that you can lay in the bottom of your boat which help cut down on noise and your feet will not get burned during the hotter months.
