knotforsail, will send you a PM
New console going in with some unique stuff as far as Mako restores go.
Hull colors will be a surprise.
Spent two and a half days on bottom paint with S4G’s and the Clarendon crew’s help along with my cousin coming and working all Saturday also. I think one more solid day of work will have the remaining epoxy barrier coat and stubborn areas clean.
3 rounds of treatment and power washing:
Luke 8:22-25
Forgot to add-
We learned that lower temps really hurt the bottom cleaning. It was 27-30 degrees overnight this past weekend, and I think if it’d been warmer the paint would have come off better.
Also, direct sunlight is bad. Treatment dries up too fast and cannot get as deep into the paint.
All this adds up to more applications and cleanings… more work.
Luke 8:22-25
That’s a great restoration project, Phin. I love those older Mako hulls.
quote:
I have an old anacapri that I'm wanting to restore but I really need someone to look at it with me to point me in the right direction.
knotforsail, I do that kind of work if you can’t find someone local. I’m about 2 hours from Charleston, but don’t mind a drive. I need to check out Haddrells anyway. It’s a great idea to get some professional guidance, preferably before you buy. It’s funny, but at least once a week someone calls me and says “I bought this old boat and want to see what it will take to fix it.” In most cases, they should have called me before they bought it:smiley:
Capt. Larry Teuton
Cracker Built Custom Boats
In the interest of safety, I suggest blocking the boat better if you are working underneath it.
Ideally get a set of poppit stands for the rear and chain together. the front can use cribbing with block, but you need to have a top block the spans across the cribbing tranversely. With the small block you have now, if the boat shifts even just a few inches side to side it is going to drop. Same goes for the rear cribbing. The small blocks do not allow any margin for shifting if it were to occur.
Iain Pelto
Sea Hunt Triton 160 w/ 90 ETEC “JB3”
Native Manta Ray 14
Since you’re gutting and refitting the inside, would it not be easier to flip the rig over so you can do all of the hull work more easily? Perhaps fashion a temp wood jig or cradle? Never restored one myself but just thought i might would try that if i was attempting this project. Seems like it would ware you out trying to get at the bottom upside down.
Doing the best I can with what I’ve got. I’m no expert by any means. I appreciate the good ideas. Can definitely use all I can get.
Someone asked about fuel. Boat has two original tanks. A 65-85 and a 35 I estimate. I will go back with 120-160 gallons. Prefer one tank, but weight distribution and console changes I’m making may require two or either something very custom, which would mean expensive, I.e. not my preference.
Luke 8:22-25
Since you indicate that you are open to advice
quote:
In the interest of safety, I suggest blocking the boat better if you are working underneath it.
I agree. That really isn’t enough blocking. It’s unsafe, there aint no way I’d crawl under there except to set some more blocks! Not only that but it’s damaging to the hull, especially if you are removing interior structure. The hull needs a lot of support or it will deform. It needs to be supported at several points along the chines also. Screw type jack stands are best for that. If you are friends with a boatyard, they might lend or rent you a few. For example, this is a boat we recently jacked up for some bottom work.
Capt. Larry Teuton
Cracker Built Custom Boats
The boat’s going back on the trailer when the bottom paint’s off. Nobody’s getting in the boat as it sits right now. Would put it on a rack for that if not the trailer.
I have way more confidence in wooden cribbing and crush members than any system using cement blocks, btw. That’s based on my experiences with cement blocks…
The thin crush members centered on the cribbing is actually to ensure the weight is centered on the stacks and cannot shift. If the crush member spanned the whole length or width of a cribbing stack, then you could inadvertently have all the weight on either side instead of centered, which means far less stability.
Those are my thoughts on why the boat is supported the way it is. Hope to only spend one more day of work with it that way.
Luke 8:22-25
Wes, here’s an engine for ya…
http://www.redregulator.com/forum/showthread.php?t=1317
23’ Regulator
‘Big Tease’
…... ><((((’>
Made some pad slicks for my front trailer bunks while the boat’s off the trailer. Cut some 1/4" starboard and rounded the edges with a router then drilled and countersank the screw holes.
Luke 8:22-25
lookin good bro!
Cape Horn 24OS For Sale!
twin 150 Optimax
I don’t want to be rich,
I just want 1 dollar more than I can spend!
counter sink may not work. they grow in sun light. need slots
Set the trap boys, we going to pass through them again!!
quote:
Originally posted by Scoutin 4 Goodiescounter sink may not work. they grow in sun light. need slots
Set the trap boys, we going to pass through them again!!
Think they’ll grow too much when they’re 12" long pieces?
May route some slots in to be safe.
Luke 8:22-25
Update from the weekend
Done with all the bottom paint removal for now. Will sand, patch some dings, then compound and wax.
Steam pressure washed some of the interior before it was time to knock off.
You can see the new console sitting in the cockpit just to ride home from where we were doing the bottom paint work.
Luke 8:22-25
Already looking much better.
Do those pad slicks make a big differene unloading? I assume they wont leave any black streaks on your boat.
My biggest need for them is for loading. The weight on those front bunks keeps the winch from easily pulling the boat up to the bow stop. On a smaller boat, I like a double set of rollers for the keel to roll on. Too much weight for that on this one so slicks and full bunks for the front.
Yes unloading is MUCH easier.
They don’t mark the boat, no.
Luke 8:22-25
2nd to last picture makes me want to buy a steam pressure washer, that is crazy
quote:
Originally posted by Phinquote:
Originally posted by Scoutin 4 Goodiescounter sink may not work. they grow in sun light. need slots
Set the trap boys, we going to pass through them again!!
Think they’ll grow too much when they’re 12" long pieces?
May route some slots in to be safe.
www.scmarine.org
www.joinrfa.com
Luke 8:22-25
You will know the first hot day this summer. You can wait until then if you want.
Set the trap boys, we going to pass through them again!!
The heck with bothering with those pads. between you and Scott, you guys should be installing a boat lift at the end of a dock some where
Ran across this looking for/at hardtops:
http://www.classicmako.com/forum/topic.asp?TOPIC_ID=18771
79 25 footer
I didn’t read much of it, but it has tons of pictures.
BG