I had not driven my 2006 Tundra for almost 4 weeks and this morning when I cranked it up, the “Check Engine” light came on and stayed on. I took it to AutoZone and Advance Auto and they both gave me the same OBD Codes indicating what was wrong.
This is what the printout said:
Code P2195 indicates the PCM detected the Bank 1 Sensor 1 oxygen sensor failed to switch from ?lean? to ?rich? for a predetermined period of time during self-test.
P2195 Oxygen (A/F) sensor signal stuck lean (Bank 1 Sensor 1)
P0102 Mass Airflow Sensor Circuit Low Input
P0113 Intake Air Temperature Sensor Circuit High Input
P2197 Oxygen (A/F) sensor signal stuck lean (Bank 2 Sensor 1)
P2195 Oxygen (A/F) sensor signal stuck lean (Bank 1 Sensor 1)
P2197 Oxygen (A/F) sensor signal stuck lean (Bank 2 Sensor 1)
(not sure why it showed the same code a couple of times)
Both guys said they would start with replacing the O2 Sensor and see if that cleared up the problem. Unless it is extremely difficult, I feel I can replace the O2 sensor, this is just new to me so I am looking for some guidance. Any input/advice would be greatly appreciated.
Also, I am assuming it is a bad idea to drive it under this condition? I am supposed to pick up my son and all of his stuff from CofC Tuesday so am figuring I am going to have to find another vehicle to do so.
Thanks
“Apathy is the Glove into Which Evil Slips It’s Hand”.
It’s only a bad idea to drive it, if you don’t want to save gas. It being stuck on lean won’t hurt it! The computer will compensate for it. Much better than being rich. First you need to figure out where the sensor is? My Ram has 4 of the 02 sensors on it!
Dfreedom, I believe you have 4 O2 sensors. Not real familiar with newer Toyota’s. Just for giggles if your Tundra is running good run some good quality fuel treatment through it. Advance won’t usually delete your codes but if you have a code reader or anyone that does delete all codes and see if they return. You may be lucky and just had a glitch that set the CEL. On a lot of cars you can simply pull a battery cable for about 5 min. and delete all non active codes.
If the above doesn’t work check to make sure all your connection are good, maybe try disconnecting and use some electric contact cleaner and then a little dielectric grease on them. wd40 works as well.
I just run it and sometimes the light will come on and sometimes it stays off for weeks at a time! I was told it won’t hurt to run it! Don’t even take it in for repair, if the light is off. After you start it and turn it off a number of times, it will dump the codes and the light will stay off because the computer reset!
It is never a good idea to run a engine with a issue. Running lean is not good for a motor. Reset the PCM and see if the code comes back on. If you are in the Charleston area, send me a PM, I can clear it for you.
Dfreedom don’t replace the oxygen sensors “o2 Sensors” they are reading correctly you have an issue with the mass air flow sensor it is located between the air filter and the throttle body the intake air temp sensor is also in the mass air flow sensor, You have 2 codes for the mass air flow/ intake air temp. It is a 2" square looking thing make sure it is plugged in all the way and no rat has chewed the wires going to it. The p0113 code is an cut wire etc. Rats and squirrels LOVE wiring under the hood of cars, if wiring is ok replace the mass air flow sensor, then disconnect the battery for 10 mins. that will reset the pcm
Found several videos on cleaning the Mass Airflow Sensor and a knowledgeable friend suggested running a couple of cans of Seafoam through as he has done that in the past and it cleaned them (O2 sensors)out. After resetting, the code did not come back on. I really need to take it to Charleston (from Columbia) tomorrow to pick up my son and all of his stuff form school and just want to make sure it won’t hurt it to drive there and back.
“Apathy is the Glove into Which Evil Slips It’s Hand”.
I think you have a different problem but I learned the hard way on my 2007 Tundra regarding “secondary air injection pump systems”.
Symptoms consist of the truck going into a fail safe mode and it will only run about half throttle. The 4Hi light flashes as well as several other lights in the instrument panel.
This has happened three times with my truck. The first two times were taken care of by Toyota and the third time they refused to cover the fix sighting “high mileage/out of part warranty”. They said that it was not technically a recall item. Only the 1 year part warranty applied so I was screwed. The fix costs nearly $3,000.
Unfortunately after I paid for the third fix I found out some valuable information. The secondary air injection pumps are only to cover some California Emissions standards and they are not necessary for the truck to run. You can buy a chip for $400 that will fool the computer into thinking there is no problem.
The injection pumps fail when they get water into them. Problem is Toyota put the intakes for these pumps in the passenger wheel well. Naturally, water and trash gets taken in as that’s a terrible place for an intake. I had the mechanic put hoses on the injection pump intakes and rerouted them to the air filter box. Hopefully this will help mitigate moisture and debris from ever getting into the injection pumps ever again.
This ordeal has taught me a valuable lesson. When you have a problem and can definitively diagnose what it is, Google solutions to the problem before you proceed with fix. I could have saved $2600 by buying the chip that would bypass something not necessary for the engine to perform.
“Endeavor to Persevere.
Give,Give… Never Take.”
EC
I’d guess a bad or dirty MAF causing the engine to run lean which will set the other codes. While I’m not giving you the “don’t know how you made it here and your definitely not making is home” speech. Running lean also means running hot, run too hot and you’ll melt pistons.
Update: I cleaned the Throttle body and the MAF sensor with a kit made by CRC. I disconnected the battery to reset the codes and the check engine light went off. I headed to Charleston to pick up my son and the light came on about 30 miles into my trip. The truck ran fairly well though not as smooth as it usually does but, I made it there and back. I am now going to act on a recommendation from a friend who suggested I run the tank down to about an 1/8 and then run a couple of cans of Seafoam through it. Apparently that fixed the same issue he had a few years ago. If that does not do it, my next resort is to replace the Bank 1, sensor 1 O2 sensor and possibly the MAF sensor. I am hoping to square this away on my own so I don’t have to take it somewhere. My “go to” shop of 35 years has a new owner so I no longer have a mechanic I trust absolutely.
“Apathy is the Glove into Which Evil Slips It’s Hand”.
Are you sure the maf is plugged in all the way. Most of the time the IAT sensor is made into the MAF sensor, seeing that you have both codes makes me wonder. Did they tell you which codes were current or history?