I replaced my old outdated crusty switches with new panels and wiring from New Wire Marine over the weekend. My switches were getting brittle and breaking and not wanting to work properly, plus they looked dated. I gave them my measurements and they custom cut three panels for me. Built in hardware, so there’s no hardware showing from the front of the panels. Its all stainless nuts, locks, flats on the inside of the console to mount the panels for a cleaner look. All I had to do was connect the signal wire to the fuse block and connect the grounds. Installation was relatively easy. I had to drill new holes for the panels install, and trim a piece of fiberglass for the new radio (went from Fusion to Polyplaner radio), but other than that, no major mods were needed. They provided a cardboard template cut to exact measurements to make it even that much easier. I now have perfectly working lights, switches, and electronics, which I’m very excited about!
A big thanks to New Wire Marine. They worked with me over several weeks and talked me through what I should do/shouldn’t do with the panels and even thought to suggest adding an additional USB power port to be able to charge the phone on the boat if you want to. Backlit switches are my new fav.
OLD:
Yes, they were still working, but started to fall apart as I removed them.
I ended up spending about $700, but the piece of mind that you’ll get is well worth it.
Prices certainly vary on panels due to:
What materials you get the panels in (they have economic choices up to really nice materials)
How much pre-wiring is involved
How many switches you request
The type of switches
How many custom cuts you require
They also do the button ones…really your imagination is your only limiting factor
I personally liked that they were local and I could go over there and talk to them face to face whenever I wanted to. Check out the options; its ridiculous how many they have.
I had some issues yesterday, but its all my fault. When I cleaned up the inside of the panels and started ziptie ing wires, I’m sure I did a few too tight, because I’m down one speaker, the horn, and the bilge. I tested everything before I zip tied, so I had to have gone too tight or the weight of the wires started to disconnect as I drove the boat and went over wake. I’ll pull the panels soon and look at it. I know better, but wiring looks so good when its tight!!
Other than that, I’m as happy as I can be about these panels! Can’t say enough positive things about them. Love the look and can’t wait to do some night fishing in the summer!
I also couldn’t get the powerpole to go down and I was thinking to myself, “How did I screw that up!?!” Well I didn’t. The cold I guess finally killed my remote battery. New CR2032 and it was good to go! Before troubleshooting connections on your powerpole, always check the battery first, pro-tip.
“Another poon dream splintered on the rocks of reality.” --Peepod 07-25-2017
when we rewire a dash, we try to always leave what we call a “service loop” at every connection. just a uniform amount of excess wire at every connection, to prevent dislodging or damaging something when the going gets a little bumpy, unless the connections are screwed in and we can then pull everything tight and keep it from moving around. Here is a little Maverick we did a few weeks back.
www.teamcharlestonmarine.com
IF I RESPOND IN ALL CAPS, ITS NOT ON PURPOSE, AND I AM NOT YELLING
Yes Chris, I knew better. I just got excited because I so rarely get to wire anything up these days. I’ll go back in and fix it when the weather gets bad.
“Another poon dream splintered on the rocks of reality.” --Peepod 07-25-2017
And the next step if it does not work…
Try to work at manually on the pump.
If that does not work remove your cap and unplug it. If it does not work then it is your motherboard. $125
I have had to replace to them first one was under warranty.
Great company good tech support and fast service.
You find things offensive.
I find things funny.
That's why I'm happier than you.