yeah, I’m mainly interested in suppliers here in charleston. if I have to travel to get the stuff its not worth it to me.
I dont ever remember seeing the pvc board at the lowes here on james island. how hard is it to work with? it looks textured so I’d probably sand it flat. but it looks like you can rout the edges pretty easy.
I used white starboard for my gauge panel but I’d like to use the pvc board for some other areas of the boat (the underside of my seats versus using plywood). does it act about the same as wood? meaning I could use my air powered stapler to staple seat upholstery to the backside of it?
does it only come in those little strips or can you get larger sheets of it?
how about that FRP stuff in the 4x8 sheet, how strong is it or is it flimsy so that you couldnt sit on a 18"x 12" section of it over a seat hole?
Very cool Phin. I love the pictures–I have put a lot of work into updating my '78 Seacraft w/ all new wiring, hardware, plumbing, etc. and wish I kept a before and after photo log as you are. Keep it coming.
Been sanding, compounding and waxing lately. My cousin came up a few weekends ago and helped big time on the topsides. Tigress is glossy now. I then got the starboard side of the bottom done this past week.
In this pic, you can see sanded (forward) and unsanded (aft).
Sanded, compounded and waxed
Here you can see the starboard side done vs the port side not done (except for the bottom paint gone).
Getting into the detailed areas like right above the bow eye are difficult with a sander, so I have used this product called Nyalox, an abrasive nylon bristle wheel. It works great. Have to compound after it still to get the area smooth.
Otherwise, I am doing most of the work with this DA sander, a vac attached to it and cleaning the pad with a belt sander cleaner block every minute or so. Without the vac, the sander clogs really quickly and fine dust is also blown everywhere within a few feet. Ideally, this would work a lot better with an air-operated DA sander with wet sandpaper and a water hose.
220 grit is working well, and the compound (ONLY 3M HD Marine compound) smooths it out.
Another thing I am having to do on stubborn ablative and epoxy barrier coat that’s left on the bottom is roughen it with 80 grit or a heavy duty scouring pad, spot treat with easy-off oven cleaner (yellow can only), let it sit 15 minutes, and scrub with the heavy duty scouring pad. This saves a lot of sanding and associated clogging/toxic dust. Have to quickly rinse what’s been treated with oven cleaner and then sort of smeared around by the scrubbing or else it “restains” the gelcoat. The an
I appreciate it Chris. Got it done with just a few hook and loop pads on the electric sander.
Pulled the teak out of the interior in order to compound and wax there. Cleaned the teak up and treated it with teak oil sealer. Very good stuff. Will get some pics of everything put back into the boat later.
I used woody wax to clean up the original mako branded aluminum rod holder rings.
I used westley’s bleach white and nylon and wire brushes to clean the teak. You can dilute the westley’s and it goes a really long way. This stuff is much cheaper than teak cleaner sold in marine stores…
Keep the teak wet until you are done and then rinse everything really well before allowing it to dry completely.
In this pic, you can see the rod holder mounts that go under the gunnels. The one on the left has been cleaned. The one in the middle has just been wet, and the one on the right is dry and untreated.
In these you can see the difference between the clean and unclean.
Here is the sealer going on. It is liquid to put on and becomes sort of waxy when it dries.
…any volunteers now that it isn’t 100 degrees outside?
</font id=“quote”></blockquote id=“quote”>Uhhhhh… no. But, Dang man. This thread sure is a wealth of information for a guy needing to do some work (the rigth way) on a boat or trailer. Much appreciated.
If you find a buyer at $14k you’re living right. You have put a lot of sweat into that thing for sure. Unfortunately it’s still a 24 year old boat with a 10 year old motor. Good luck with your sale.
hook and loop pads on the electric sander.
