Trailer under 17’ jon boat, 40 hp, has good shimmy at around 50+ mph.
Took the hubs off re-greased. Seemed OK. Both wheels spin OK w/ no sense of vibration.
On trip to lake, it seemed OK till coming home then vibration set in enough to feel in truck.
Checked both tires for bumps/lumps. None.
Over inflated both tires (20+) to be sure they are seated…the back to correct 50psi. Did not hear any seating.
I cleaned the back of both rims the first time. There was some grease on back of one now.
I could not get the starboard hub off. Beat on it and etc. It comes loose but will not come off.??? Port side is fine.
Spindles seem OK. I don’t see any signs of wear.
To me, a trailer shimmy is a side to side motion. That could be as simple as too little tongue weight, or too heavy on the ass end. A trailer vibration has to come from tires, and, or, bearings. The hub not wanting to come off could relate to a damaged spindle, or bearing race?
Real easy to hit a pot hole and cause a tire to break an inner belt. On the hub, sounds like either the inner or outer bearing hanging on spindle. Get a brass drift or punch and start tapping/ beating it from the back side and see what happens. Needs to come off and be inspected to see what had it hung.
If that is the case get a three pound hammer and a helper. Wack the top of the hub (not the back yet) while the helper rotates the wheel 90 degrees or so after each wack. Don’t use a framing hammer, get a short handled 3 pounder or so and don’t be afraid to knock the schitt out of it, its likely ruined anyway.
You can knock on the back of the hub occasionally too, and its OK to use something like a framing hammer or a smaller ball-penn on the back to drive it out, but your main focus should be a good wack while your buddy is applying outward pressure and rotating.
Dont smash the helpers fingers and don’t be afraid to hit it as hard as if you were trying to drive a 20 penny nail thru a 4x6 on one blow.
The bearing race is likely heat seared/welded/stuck/rusted to the spindle.
Beat on it, not only from the back, but from the top while rotating. Knock it back in occasionally and try again.
I have bolted a section of chain onto the hub and then added a heavy piece of metal on the other side of the chain. Then use that setup like a slide hammer.
Alright GD it ,where you at?My grandboy and some Cajun just came home from a turnaround where they were slugging down flexatallics for a month.They said that if I supplied the likker ,we’d come over and get it off.I’ll get them to load up my torch just in case, I can cut it off without damaging anything,I’m that good.haha
Okay, I told them to go ahead and hit the titty bar but they’ll be camping out in my shop until another shut down comes up.Over grown gorillas will probably eat all my deer meat.haha
DR, I’m starting to think you’re not a doctor at all. or a trailer mechanic.
I kid.
also, assman needs a timeout. he’s outta control.
if you can’t get this done yourself, take it to Tommy Stone/Trailer shop mt p. or sonny at iron knight trailer behind gaslight square on rivers ave. they’re both good and fair priced.
Harris Stone [on facebook] helped us several times on the side of the road. not sure if he still makes house calls, but he can handle this for you.
I have a OLD scissor jack from the 60s. With its wide base, it fit very well between hub and frame. Rotated hub several times, heard a pop, then another, and off it came.
I see only one small scratch which leveled out easily.
Off to Hanckel’s. Their price is = internet prices.
Got the new hubs----it did not go on easily…once on I noticed the outer bearing washer was not centered in the hub…
And when I pumped in grease, it came out the back. Seal was not sealing.
Got new axle/hubs coming Friday from Charleston trailer…]
