Trailer floats bad… i mean real bad! When i fish solo… i have to back the trailer real deep just to get the ■■■■ thing off. Well by the time i get t tied up it has all 3 ramps blocked from floating down stream.
I have added 200lb of lead, no help. Next is to cut!
Do you think i raelly need thosed big outside bunks? or you think i should take off the inside bunks?
Here are some pics… not very good ones though.
2502 trophy twin 175 mercs
“The Rum Runner”
i do boat lifts and we have the same problem sometimes. i would add lead until the problem is solved instead of removing bunks.
another solution is to add a rope to your trailer and tie it to the floating dock after backing in. leave enough rope so the trailer touches bottom when you load the boat.
Jeff Davis is my President
you trailer that boat by yourself? that’s good…
this is a very good question…I can’t wait to hear some other guys respond to this…
I’m guessing putting in at places like Wappoo don’t really help much with all the current…
And the sea shall grant each man new hope as sleep brings dreams of home ~ Don Cristobol
The Morris Island Lighthouse web page
www.savethelight.org
Ditch the outboard bunks, move the inboard bunks out about 6", and raise them up to keep the hull the same distance from the trailer.
Iain Pelto
Edgewater 185CC “Jumpin’ Bean II”
I’m no expert, but don’t ya think its the 6 air filled tires that are floating that baby, not the bunks?
SeaPro 180CC
Not the tires…I mean, I am sure they help but those bunks look like rail road ties up close. Just keep them and add weight. Go to “cricket curves” and grab some plates from the rack.
Mike
204 CC Angler, 150 Merc
17’ Hydrasports bass boat, 150 Evinrude
12’ jon, 24lb thrust MK
16’ canoe, oars
I had the same problem on my triple axle aluminum trailer. Adding 30 lbs of lead on the rear crossbar between the bunks solved it. Where did you put the lead? I only have one set of big bunks at the back though. My boat is rated at 8500lbs dry, but they have hit the scale at 11,200 with the trailer and fuel. 200 lbs of lead seems like a whole lot.
Bring on the 2-3 chop!
I had a 15K lb. capacity aluminum triple axle trailer for a 32’ boat with an 11’ beam and it only had the inner bunks like yours and it worked just fine with no floating whatsoever. I too would remove the outter bunks and you will likely see your problem go away. Why ADD any more unnecessary weight??
cause the bunks support the weight. reducing the amount of load bearing surface can cause damage to the hull.
Jeff Davis is my President
The heavy/dense wood probably adds ‘some’ flotation, but the tires are really where the problem lies w/ Aluminum framed trailers.
6 tires can float a lot of weight, but its not like you can do anything about the tires, so appears added weight and maybe less bunks would have to do.
Heavier air in the tires?
Too much wood and tires too far into the water.
There are lots of things I’d do to correct the problem.
#1
slide your entire bow stop assembly back 6-12 inches. It adjusts via bolts that attach it to the frame of the trailer. Your bunks are presently sticking out past the transom by 6 inches or so, and if your trailer tongue is heavy when you pull it down the road, this is why. This may have been done intentionally, but I don’t see it. You do not have that heavy of a boat. Lighter construction hull and 2 stroke engines… Don’t see why the boat has to ride that far forward.
Adjusting the bow stop backwards will have your boat further back into the water, thereby allowing it to come off the trailer without the trailer being so far into the water. Use a high quality winch strap and safety chain as your bow will be lighter on the trailer.
#2
Get rid of the outside set of bunks and slide the inside set outboard to where the starboard side is over the -1 in the phone number in the picture.
#3
Replace the carpet and spray it with bunk slick lubricant so you do not have to put the trailer so far into the water to get the boat on and off.
One of the above or any combination of the 3 will help you.
I would not add weight to the trailer. You have an excessive amount of floatation with those tires and 4 very buoyant pieces of wood. On top of that, you have a lightweight aluminum trailer.
I would start with reconfiguring bunks. That has solved the problem with trailers we have had in the past that wanted to float off when you didn’t have a guy in the truck ready to back in deeper once the boat was put on the end of the trailer to hold it down.
You can also shorten the bunks and add two saddle bunks for the very front of the boat’s keel. These can be on adjusting bunk mounts and made out of 2x6’s laid flat and about 3-4ft long. You can then cut down on the length of your rear bunks and reduce buoyancy a lot.
I think what will help most in your case is gettin
Here is the trailer I used to have…
and here it is loaded…
The trailer had no outboard bunks, but had 235/75/15 tires running 65 psi and only weighed 1040 lbs. according to the manufacturer and it did not float.
quote:
Originally posted by PhinToo much wood and tires too far into the water.
There are lots of things I’d do to correct the problem.
#1
slide your entire bow stop assembly back 6-12 inches. It adjusts via bolts that attach it to the frame of the trailer. Your bunks are presently sticking out past the transom by 6 inches or so, and if your trailer tongue is heavy when you pull it down the road, this is why. This may have been done intentionally, but I don’t see it. You do not have that heavy of a boat. Lighter construction hull and 2 stroke engines… Don’t see why the boat has to ride that far forward.
Adjusting the bow stop backwards will have your boat further back into the water, thereby allowing it to come off the trailer without the trailer being so far into the water. Use a high quality winch strap and safety chain as your bow will be lighter on the trailer.#2
Get rid of the outside set of bunks and slide the inside set outboard to where the starboard side is over the -1 in the phone number in the picture.#3
Replace the carpet and spray it with bunk slick lubricant so you do not have to put the trailer so far into the water to get the boat on and off.One of the above or any combination of the 3 will help you.
I would not add weight to the trailer. You have an excessive amount of floatation with those tires and 4 very buoyant pieces of wood. On top of that, you have a lightweight aluminum trailer.
I would start with reconfiguring bunks. That has solved the problem with trailers we have had in the past that wanted to float off when you didn’t have a guy in the truck ready to back in deeper once the boat was put on the end of the trailer to hold it down.
You can also shorten the bunks and add two saddle bunks for the very front of the boat’s keel. These can be on adjusting bunk mounts and made out of 2x6’s laid f
quote:
Originally posted by Bad Habiti do boat lifts and we have the same problem sometimes. i would add lead until the problem is solved instead of removing bunks.
another solution is to add a rope to your trailer and tie it to the floating dock after backing in. leave enough rope so the trailer touches bottom when you load the boat.Jeff Davis is my President
Trailer doesn’t touch bottom when i load the boat. I back it real shallow and get up as far as i can… than have the guy driving the truck back the trailer under the boat while the motors are still pushing. Once up… pull out before she float to the next ramp.
Not a big deal with 2 people… kinda have a routine, but by yourself… WHAT A B!TCH!
2502 trophy twin 175 mercs
“The Rum Runner”
i 2nd that. try liquid rollerz 1st for a simplier solution, you might be able to power off much easier.
My problem was draft. It was impossible to load the boat without trailer completely in the water to avoid “skining” the gelcoat at the bow on the middle cross member. This was even with two people trying to back the trailer under it to prevent floating.
The outer bunk looks to be on the chine itself. I would think that is not right at all.
Bring on the 2-3 chop!
I agree with phin, and will add something, if you were to raise the front of the bunks by an inch or 2, it would place more of the load farther forward, and increase your tounge weight without moving the boat farther up the trailer.
also, they make aluminum bunks
your boat is 25’ no real need for a triple axle trailer at all. Have you considered trying to trade someone that needs a 3 axle, and has a 2 axle?
I still think the best solution would be heavier air in the tires
I’m now at www.teamcharlestonmarine.com
Yeah, the tires might still have that light factory air in them!! [:0]
“Miss Amanda”
-KeyWest
-Bluewater 2020CC
-Yammy F-150God is GOOD!! ALL the time!!
The shortest distance between a problem and a solution is the distance between your knees and the floor.
The one who kneels to the Lord can stand up to anything.
</font id=“blue”>
quote:
Originally posted by chris VI agree with phin, and will add something, if you were to raise the front of the bunks by an inch or 2, it would place more of the load farther forward, and increase your tounge weight without moving the boat farther up the trailer.
also, they make aluminum bunks
your boat is 25’ no real need for a triple axle trailer at all. Have you considered trying to trade someone that needs a 3 axle, and has a 2 axle?I still think the best solution would be heavier air in the tires
I’m now at www.teamcharlestonmarine.com
I agree with the air thing…take the helium out and replace it with normal air:smiley:
26’ Twinvee
Suzuki 175’s
www.creeksidemetalworks.com