I’m always getting far too much water in the bilge when I use the live well. From looking at my little video with the go-pro, it looks like water is spilling over the top of the live well.
It’s apparent that a previous owner had the same problem and it looks like his solution to try to fix it was to spray some Great Seal (canned insulation) around the top of the live well. Besides it looking like crap, looks like he did a bad job. Here’s the video:
I wish I could find someone about 1 foot tall to get in the well to scrape out the mess, but I’ll have to do that. What would the best way to seal this mess. I was thinking of caulk sealant, but some of the gaps makes it look like it’d take a case of caulk to do that. (but I will if I have to)
I’m open to all suggestions except fire, dynamite, sawing, hammers, sinking and giving the boat away.
Thanks in advance.
“I am constantly amazed at the stupidity of the general public.”
~my dad
Equipment:
2007 Grady White 222 Fisherman / 250 Yamaha
Simrad NSS evo2 and G4
1- 23 boy that won’t move out)
1 - 19 year old (fishing maniac)
1 - wife (The Warden)
It’s a common issue on many boats, claim. My older Sea Pro had the same issue. My new sportsman doesn’t because they started bonding the livewell compartments to the cap. My solution in the Sea Pro was to only fill it about half way if in rougher waters by tilting the snorkel down. It can really be a problem if you’re headed to a reef and not aware that your bilge is filling up, but I know I’m preaching to the choir
I’m sorry I don’t have a fix to recommend to you.
1966 13’ Boston Whaler “Flatty”
2018 Sportsman Masters 207 www.eyestrikefishing.com#predatorsstriketheeye
I agree with you… the spray-can foam was the incorrect product! Hopefully it isn’t too hard to scrap out. Before you fill the gap between the lid and livewell I think you need to make sure it isn’t moving / dropping.
My first choice would be a thickened epoxy. Something with a peanut butter consistency. Second choice would be 4200 if you can comfortable get the gun in there. Another option would be JB Weld WaterWeld putty.
Whatever you use, take the time and tape/paper off the walls and bottom of the livewell so any spillage doesn’t leave a mark.
It’s a common issue on many boats, claim. My older Sea Pro had the same issue. My new sportsman doesn’t because they started bonding the livewell compartments to the cap. My solution in the Sea Pro was to only fill it about half way if in rougher waters by tilting the snorkel down. It can really be a problem if you’re headed to a reef and not aware that your bilge is filling up, but I know I’m preaching to the choir
I’m sorry I don’t have a fix to recommend to you.
1966 13’ Boston Whaler “Flatty”
2018 Sportsman Masters 207 www.eyestrikefishing.com#predatorsstriketheeye
My old Sea Pro was the same way, I had to keep the water flow cock valve half shut to keep it from flooding the bilge. There is no flow cock on this one…well…not inside the live well.
“I am constantly amazed at the stupidity of the general public.”
~my dad
Equipment:
2007 Grady White 222 Fisherman / 250 Yamaha
Simrad NSS evo2 and G4
1- 23 boy that won’t move out)
1 - 19 year old (fishing maniac)
1 - wife (The Warden)
I agree with you… the spray-can foam was the incorrect product! Hopefully it isn’t too hard to scrap out. Before you fill the gap between the lid and livewell I think you need to make sure it isn’t moving / dropping.
My first choice would be a thickened epoxy. Something with a peanut butter consistency. Second choice would be 4200 if you can comfortable get the gun in there. Another option would be JB Weld WaterWeld putty.
Whatever you use, take the time and tape/paper off the walls and bottom of the livewell so any spillage doesn’t leave a mark.
Regards
The thickened epoxy sounds like a good choice. I’d think it would be something you could pack into the gaps even with getting into awkward positions. Any idea of a name brand or place to get some? Looks like from the video it’s going to be multiple quarts of the stuff.
On the dropping issue…I think it’s sitting on the deck, don’t think I could raise it.
“I am constantly amazed at the stupidity of the general public.”
~my dad
Equipment:
2007 Grady White 222 Fisherman / 250 Yamaha
Simrad NSS evo2 and G4
1- 23 boy that won’t move out)
1 - 19 year old (fishing maniac)
1 - wife (The Warden)
I may have found a product, unless someone can steer me into a better direction.
Looks like something I can get a Lowe’s might work - Oatey Fix-It Epoxy stick.
Says it works on wood, plastic, fiberglass, hardens in minutes. Grab an armload of these and start playing…
“I am constantly amazed at the stupidity of the general public.”
~my dad
Equipment:
2007 Grady White 222 Fisherman / 250 Yamaha
Simrad NSS evo2 and G4
1- 23 boy that won’t move out)
1 - 19 year old (fishing maniac)
1 - wife (The Warden)
Use razor blade and or wire brush on cordless drill to shave that foam back even with the wall, then reapply foam filling any gaps they missed.
Once the foam is cured go back and shave/shape it again. Then apply a good coat of 3M 5200 to seal the foam and make it water tight.
Unfortunately you have no way of manually reinforcing the livewell so I would not use any type of epoxy of hard solution as it will just crack. 5200 is flexible and will absorb some movement in case the livewelll is not 100 percent locked in.
I used Lifeseal, worked well. I believe they make non-expanding spray foam as well, maybe you could use it on the larger gaps and then skim with a sealant.
I know you don’t like the idea, but honestly, use the great stuff, let it cure over night, grind it smooth, and tab in some fiberglass strips, and you shouldn’t ever have to worry with it again
I know you don’t like the idea, but honestly, use the great stuff, let it cure over night, grind it smooth, and tab in some fiberglass strips, and you shouldn’t ever have to worry with it again
Chris! That sounds like serious work. You’re killing me!!!
“I am constantly amazed at the stupidity of the general public.”
~my dad
Equipment:
2007 Grady White 222 Fisherman / 250 Yamaha
Simrad NSS evo2 and G4
1- 23 boy that won’t move out)
1 - 19 year old (fishing maniac)
1 - wife (The Warden)
Work has been slow for the past month…I haven’t gotten an assignment in a week. The Warden is giving me grief about it. Y’all need to file some homeowner insurance claimss before I have to sell the boat.
“I am constantly amazed at the stupidity of the general public.”
~my dad
Equipment:
2007 Grady White 222 Fisherman / 250 Yamaha
Simrad NSS evo2 and G4
1- 23 boy that won’t move out)
1 - 19 year old (fishing maniac)
1 - wife (The Warden)
I did my repair today and it took an unexpected twist. After replacing my bad float switch, I started scraping and toothbrush sized wire brushing the old Great Seal out of the top of the livewell. The more I cleaned out, the more of defect I found ---- the top of the live well had failed due to several issues.
The top of the live well was at best 1/16" thick piece of plastic that was caulked and screwed to the top of the insulated live well. Where the screws attached to the live well, the plastic had broken in half dollar sizes. This could have happened by wear and tear or by the application of the Great Seal by a previous owner.
I had to take off the under the seal tool box. and access the top of the live well where more Great Seal was gooped up every where. The original caulk was no longer adhered to the plastic.
In short, the live well top was more of a floppy lid. I’m surprised I didn’t sink the boat.
Here are the picture I took of the repair:
I’ve removed the tool/tackle box from under the seat. The top of the live well has goobs of Great Seal and the plastic is broken
[url=https://flic.kr/p/28nNU1X]
Wow - That foam was holding the back of the lid together. Good thing you investigated and did the repair. Your caulk work looks good.
Some bad news… Starboard does not respond well to adhesives. Somehow the chemical make-up of Starboard will decrease the bond with 5200, etc. over time. I don’t think its going to separate tomorrow, but one good slosh may break the seal.
Two thoughts:
1st option: Screws: It looks like the old lid was held down with screws around the perimeter. Does the Starboard have any screws going down into the livewell perimeter? If so, then you are good to go! The screws will secure the Starboard and the 5200 will help adhere and also stop the leaking.
2nd option - and this one probably doesn’t belong on a Grady White… What is that support behind the livewell (pic below)? You may be able to wedge a piece of wood below this support and somehow keep the lid down. After further thinking this is probably not the best solution
I’d try and go the screw route. Predrilled the Starboard a bit smaller than your screws and use a washer to support the screwhead.
Wow - That foam was holding the back of the lid together. Good thing you investigated and did the repair. Your caulk work looks good.
Some bad news… Starboard does not respond well to adhesives. Somehow the chemical make-up of Starboard will decrease the bond with 5200, etc. over time. I don’t think its going to separate tomorrow, but one good slosh may break the seal.
Two thoughts:
1st option: Screws: It looks like the old lid was held down with screws around the perimeter. Does the Starboard have any screws going down into the livewell perimeter? If so, then you are good to go! The screws will secure the Starboard and the 5200 will help adhere and also stop the leaking.
2nd option - and this one probably doesn’t belong on a Grady White… What is that support behind the livewell (pic below)? You may be able to wedge a piece of wood below this support and somehow keep the lid down. After further thinking this is probably not the best solution
I’d try and go the screw route. Predrilled the Starboard a bit smaller than your screws and use a washer to support the screwhead.
Regards
That bracket supports the back of the tool/tackle box. I did put three screws from the helm side access door, but was limited by space of getting my drill in for pilot holes. I may have to invest in a smaller drill/driver to add some more.
Thanks for the heads up, I’ll keep my eye on it.
“I am constantly amazed at the stupidity of the general public.”
~my dad
Equipment:
2007 Grady White 222 Fisherman / 250 Yamaha
Simrad NSS evo2 and G4
1- 23 boy that won’t move out)
1 - 19 year o
yep, nothing bonds well to starboard.
I was going to suggest removing the old foam, and since you have easy access to the area, just a layer of fiberglass to make a new seal around the top.
surprised your big ass could get in that small space. I’ll get 7CS to put you on prayer chain for some big storms to hit.
Mostly wild-assed guessing with a $7 swivel mirror from Target. That sucker is ruin’t.
I guess I’ll need to find a small an angle head / drill screw driver, pry the box out and screw bolt the lid down. Wish I had heard about starboard not gluing down. Bummer.
“I am constantly amazed at the stupidity of the general public.”
~my dad
Equipment:
2007 Grady White 222 Fisherman / 250 Yamaha
Simrad NSS evo2 and G4
1- 23 boy that won’t move out)
1 - 19 year old (fishing maniac)
1 - wife (The Warden)
