Early spring, most of us are getting ready for a big summer on the water and handling a few last minute maintenance projects on the boat. A few weeks back I got the guys with T Top Covers to replace all the canvas on my T Top and put together a new “phone booth” for me. To do this I had to remove my radar antenna, VHF antenna, all my overhead electronics, disconnect my spreader lights, stern light, and remove my electronics box. While I had everything taken apart I decided to go ahead and add another VHF this one equipped with the DSC emergency feature and trouble shoot my lighting on my instrument gauges that was working sporadically. My wife was real excited to get the new canvas and T Top cover did an excellent job as usual; however, she was not so excited when I told her I was going to be out working on the boat for the next 3-nights after work wiring everything back together.
Marine wiring usually presents some unique challenges such as working in some real tight areas, feeding wire through tight chases, feeding wire through T-Top or other superstructure piping, and perhaps the hardest part of it all, keeping all the wire well organized. If your boat was wired by a reputable manufacturer; then believe it or not there is some method to the madness for the mess of wires underneath your console. Below is the color code used in the marine industry; according to the American Boat and Yachting Council Standards, perhaps it will help you decipher the usage.
Yellow w/red stripe – This wire is for the starting circuit. It runs from the starter switch to the starter solenoid.
Yellow – Two uses. 1) It is used in the alternator field terminal to the regulator on the engine. 2) Power wire for the bilge blower if your boat is so equipped, it runs from your fuse or switch to your blower.
Dark Gray – Two purposes. 1) Power wire for your navigation lights. It runs from your fuse or switch to your lights. 2) Tachometer wire-it runs from your tachometer sender on the engine to your tac.
Brown – 3 different pu