Goal is to have a flat, uniform surface to bed new stringers to. Ground the old beds pretty flat with a diamond “turbo cup” wheel on the trusty grinder. aft end of the stringers was really nasty, lots of delaminated layers that I ground back until I found solid glass. Rest wasn’t too bad, just got it fairly flat and called it good.
I think I am going to fill the channel where the old stringers sat with some mat/thickened resin rather than trying to completely grind out 2 layers for 12" on either side of the stringers. Once everything is back to flat (enough) I will probably lay a single layer of 1708 over the whole area to get a good surface to bond new stringers and glass to.
redneck grinding tent in full effect. added a filter to keep the dust inside as much as possible. I’m sure my neighbors love me…
An after-thought… I have to wonder if the obvious lack of good geometry of the stringer placement in the hull isn’t intentional to make up for a rather major semitry error of the deck mold. Either way something isn’t right. And there is no excuse for the lack of a quality bond of stringers to hull. Maybe the foam holds it all together <g>
Yes, the foam was definitely the key to these hulls! new stringers will go in straight
quote:Originally posted by boatpoor
Love your filter assembly! Great idea. Keep it up, don’t burn up the grinder!
thanks! actually works pretty darn good. I tape a couple cheap plastic drop cloths over the boat, use a fan at one end to inflate like a bubble, and the filter catches all the crap coming out the other end. I keep the shop vac in there with me and suck up dust as I go, really helps keep it contained. In the shade it’s not too bad because you have constant airflow, but the “greenhouse effect” gets it hot in the sun .
I know it’s time to take a break when the grinder literally gets too hot to handle even with gloves on!
well, still haven’t sold my other toy so no funds to go buy resin, glass, and foam yet.
Been working on some minor things, experimented with removing the bottom paint. I had planned to have it blasted, but since I have more time than money right now I tried a few home remedies to see how easily it would come off. Results are encouraging, except for the blisters I found in a few spots under the paint… not too bad but enough to be a real pain.
I didn’t want to use a chemical stripper that would dissolve the boat and kill me in the process, but i’m not mechanically removing all that crap either. So tried a few seemingly less toxic removers - EZ Off oven cleaner (regular and heavy duty) and Multi-Strip “safer” paint stripper, followed up with a stiff scraper.
Tried various combinations of time, covering with plastic, etc etc but basically came to the following:
Multi-strip works OK but takes forever. Super thick so it’s a hassle to apply. Still doesn’t always take it all off. Covering with plastic film makes it less effective.
Contrary to what some have reported, I found the Heavy Duty EZ Off (yellow can) to work a little better than the regular (blue can). Both are pretty effective, but only remove a thin layer at a time. But, works fast and super easy to apply. Covering with plastic can help, but not really worth it, easier to just reapply.
Regardless of stripper used, multiple applications was way more effective than waiting longer.
Orange Goop hand cleaner with a scrubby pad takes off the final residue extremely well
Got the sides stripped and started removing the name. Probably wont really worry about the bottom until the stringers are in and I can take it off the trailer. may still have it blasted but I now know I could do it myself pretty cheap and easy, just messy.
I had good luck with Red Devil Lye and cornstarch. Mix it to a thin paste and roll it on with a paint roller. Let it sit for about 30-45 minutes and then remove it with a pressure washer. I think mine took about 3 applications and it was off.
never heard of using lye or acid, but makes sense that it would work. I know you can get muriatic acid anywhere with pool supplies, where do find straight lye? I assume it comes as a powder or something?
Hard to beat the oven cleaner for ease of application though. It’s actually kind of scary how well it works. Makes me wonder what the hell is in that stuff.
hmm I haven’t reviewed Phin’s build in a while, probably should. I need a little motivation!
Do you have a pressure washer? If you do, you can get a sand blaster unit or one at Northern. Have used many times, works well, use very fine sand and move quick!
Phin was the one who turned me on to the Lye and cornstarch. I got the Lye at Ace Hardware and the cornstarch at Food Lion. I would mix the Lye with water and then sprinkle in the cornstarch while I continued to mix (stir) once the paste formed, just roll the paint roller on as if you’re painting the bottom. Just don’t get it on your skin. That crap will burn like fire.
thanks for suggestions on bottom paint, filing that away for later when I can block boat up without trailer or hopefully find a way to flip completely.
For now I’m moving on with getting new stringers in. been traveling, but got a little work done on the boat last weekend so here’s a late update. photobucket doesn’t seen to have taken a dump on me yet, but I’m sure it’s coming any time now.
Been working on making a template for stringers. Hard to see in the photo, but I laid out two parallel lines 34" apart from transom to chine in the bow. Stringers will be 2" so this puts them about 36" on center, a little closer than factory (about 40-42") but gives me more room to put the fishboxes under the deck and should result in better support for the hull with my rebuild strategy.
The forward end of the stringers curves up sharply, so I made a template with hot glue and stir sticks. Then transferred this to hardboard to make a reusable template.
Used several sections to make it easier to handle everything. Note that this is just to get the bottom profile correct, I will adjust the stringer height to get desired deck position and slope later. Stringers will be about 18 ft long and average about 14" tall.
Cut a test piece out of cheap foam board just to make sure everything fit before I start slicing and dicing expensive core.
still have some grinding to do, but that will wait until right before I’m ready to glass so I don’t have to do it twice. I want a fresh clean surface to stick e
little proof-of-concept work on the stringers today. I have never used the 0/90 1808 I have for the stringers so made a quick mock-up to try it out. Used some foam board I had laying around and covered it with tape and paper to protect it from the resin, cut to same angles and size as the real thing.
Was worried that the 1808 would be hard to drape but as long as the fibers were lined up with the stringer it folded over even easier than the 45/45 1708. It is a little different texture than the 1708 though, not as smooth. Two each alternating layers of 1808 and 1708 gave an average total thickness of 0.190", exactly as predicted. Should work nicely.
Hopefully this weekend I can get at least one stringer in, but still have a lot of prep work to do so we’ll see.
</font id=“size6”>MURIATIC ACID IN A GARDEN SPRAYER WITH SOME WATER !!!
Before someone gets hurt, isn’t there a proper procedure for doing this so you don’t create a blow up and get acid all over you? Cant remember but aren’t you only supposed to pour the acid into the water or the water into the acid??? Can’t remember which…
“Endeavor to Persevere.
Give,Give… Never Take.”
EC
</font id=“size6”>MURIATIC ACID IN A GARDEN SPRAYER WITH SOME WATER !!!
Before someone gets hurt, isn’t there a proper procedure for doing this so you don’t create a blow up and get acid all over you? Cant remember but aren’t you only supposed to pour the acid into the water or the water into the acid??? Can’t remember which…
“Endeavor to Persevere.
Give,Give… Never Take.”
EC
All advice is for entertainment purposes only…No liability is incurred if you lack common sense!
Put the water in first…under pressure from a garden hose???
.
