1986 Mako 231 Rebuild

I assume you are using 3" PVC as your rigging tube.
for your application, why could you not use white PVC instead of grey?
I don’t think there is a difference other than the color

www.teamcharlestonmarine.com
www.bombislandboats.com
IF I RESPOND IN ALL CAPS, ITS NOT ON PURPOSE, AND I AM NOT YELLING

quote:
Originally posted by chris V

I assume you are using 3" PVC as your rigging tube.
for your application, why could you not use white PVC instead of grey?
I don’t think there is a difference other than the color

www.teamcharlestonmarine.com
www.bombislandboats.com
IF I RESPOND IN ALL CAPS, ITS NOT ON PURPOSE, AND I AM NOT YELLING


still deciding how I’m going to do the rigging tubes. 3" seemed huge when I got it in the boat, went back and measured and original tubes were 2-1/2". Harder to find 2-1/2" stuff though, so I’ll probably just go with 3" for the main tubes.

I’ll probably end up using a mix of regular white 3" PVC (about half the price) for the straight runs and grey 3" electrical conduit for the nice sweeping bends in a few spots.

trying to figure out where to run everything is hard when you have a completely blank slate!


Angler 204 FX
Yamaha 150

quote:
Originally posted by wolfie
quote:
Originally posted by chris V

I assume you are using 3" PVC as your rigging tube.
for your application, why could you not use white PVC instead of grey?
I don’t think there is a difference other than the color

www.teamcharlestonmarine.com
www.bombislandboats.com
IF I RESPOND IN ALL CAPS, ITS NOT ON PURPOSE, AND I AM NOT YELLING


still deciding how I’m going to do the rigging tubes. 3" seemed huge when I got it in the boat, went back and measured and original tubes were 2-1/2". Harder to find 2-1/2" stuff though, so I’ll probably just go with 3" for the main tubes.

I’ll probably end up using a mix of regular white 3" PVC (about half the price) for the straight runs and grey 3" electrical conduit for the nice sweeping bends in a few spots.

trying to figure out where to run everything is hard when you have a completely blank slate!


Angler 204 FX
Yamaha 150


I was thinking you were probably using electrical conduit for the sweeps…but you can get the same sweeps in regular PVC too…just check at lowes next time you are in plumbing department. You shouldn’t have any trouble finding sweeping T’s and 90’s in regular schedule 40 PVC.

“Endeavor to Persevere.
Give,Give… Never Take.”
EC

haven’t had much time to work on the boat lately, still chipping away at all preparing to lay the deck.

Also finally cut out the final pieces of the liner and anchor locker. I was holding off just in case I saw some use for the pieces but I’m pretty confident I won’t reuse them so out they go. Found a few more bags of foam, and my boat’s T-shirt! (if you haven’t heard about this, there’s an explanation somewhere in the Mako History Q&A thread on classicmako.com, funny bit of Mako history trivia)

Working on installing a ledger to support the outer edge of the deck. 1" by 3" coosa strips with a few coosa wedges for extra support. Glued some pieces of coosa together, ripped them to width, then cut one strip into a bunch of squares. Tacked them with hot glue at a 45 deg angle on a scrap of plywood, then ran that through the table saw to make a bunch of triangles.

Triangles were bedded to the hull, but due to the slope of the sides I had to scribe a level line and trim them to get the ledger to lay flat. Rounded over the edges of the ledger and cut a few kerfs and a slight bevel in one side to get it to conform to curvature of the hull. Glued the coosa strips onto the supports with thickened resin and bedded them to the hull with core bonding compound. I have a piece of aluminum angle that makes an awesome straight edge for ensuring everything lines up. Held the ledger in place with some temporary screws until everything sets up. The entire thing will then get a couple layers of glass to marry it to the hull.

Also been working on an MDF mold for the in-deck storage/fishboxes, will try to get some duratec on it this weekend.

[img]https://i.imgur.com/R43nqoU.jpg?1[

Glad to see you have found some time to continue the fine looking job!

I have to ask…
why all the extra work to make and install the triangle supports instead of a full ledger support?

www.teamcharlestonmarine.com
www.bombislandboats.com
IF I RESPOND IN ALL CAPS, ITS NOT ON PURPOSE, AND I AM NOT YELLING

don’t get me wrong, the supports and the work quality are perfect, just wondering

www.teamcharlestonmarine.com
www.bombislandboats.com
IF I RESPOND IN ALL CAPS, ITS NOT ON PURPOSE, AND I AM NOT YELLING

quote:
Originally posted by chris V

I have to ask…
why all the extra work to make and install the triangle supports instead of a full ledger support?

www.teamcharlestonmarine.com
www.bombislandboats.com
IF I RESPOND IN ALL CAPS, ITS NOT ON PURPOSE, AND I AM NOT YELLING


I looked at a lot of ways to support the deck, easiest thing I’ve seen is just a strip of core glued flat to the hull to make a 1” or so lip all around. I just did it this way so I had a nice wide ledge to work with in case I do try to incorporate a drain channel around the perimeter. Was afraid a 3-4” wide strip just glued/glassed to the hull along one edge wouldn’t hold up without some extra support.

Good question, there’s a lot of things I’m probably way overdoing. But I want to have completely confidence in the boat, so I’d rather spend a few extra minutes now than worry about it/break something later. The “few extra” minutes/hours sure add up fast though… Progress has been painfully slow lately but I’m chipping away at it.


Angler 204 FX
Yamaha 150

GOT IT, MAKES SENSE
AT FIRST GLANCE I THOUGHT THE BOARD ON TOP OF THE ANGLE BRACKETS WAS A GUIDE TO KNOW WHERE TO PUT THE GUSSETS.
AFTER LOOKING AGIN, I SEE THE BOARD IS ACTUALLY YOUR DECK SUPPORT AND THE GUSSETS ARE REINFORCING THE BOARD.
INCREDIBLY WELL ENGINEERED.
BOAT IS GONNA BE BUILT LIKE A TANK.

www.teamcharlestonmarine.com
www.bombislandboats.com
IF I RESPOND IN ALL CAPS, ITS NOT ON PURPOSE, AND I AM NOT YELLING

no time to work on the boat lately, but crawling along when I can.

Got most of the ledgers glassed in, I used a final layer of peel ply to help get a good surface to bond the deck to and protect it until I’m ready to glue the deck down.

Also got the plug prepped for the aft boxes but haven’t had time to make them yet. figuring out the drains has been a bit of a puzzle, but I think I’ve got a plan. Going to build a low point into the box that will feed a thru-hull to a 1-1/2" drain hose, which will connect to a sump box for pumpout or drain to bilge.

in more exciting news, Sunshine Marine has finished my tank and it should be here next week! came out to be 111 gallons, I think it will be a perfect capacity for a big four stroke on this boat. Will fit into the “coffin” with two inches on all sides. I know there is always a hot debate, but I am going to foam it in with 4lb foam and then glass over the top of the foam to seal it. Tank is epoxy coated. It also has mounting tabs to secure it to the stringers. Not going to be easy to work on if there ever is a problem, but like everything else below deck I’m not planning to go back in once it’s sealed up. I had them locate the fittings so they will fall under the leaning post and the console - I hate having random inspection plates in the deck under foot. Just have to make sure I leave a way to access the inspection plates from inside the console/leaning post.


Angler 204 FX
Yamaha 150

still moving forward, slowly.

Tank is in! Bolted into position and foamed it in with 4 lb foam. Covered tank top to protect from drips and overflow but still what a freakin mess that stuff makes. It’s also amazing how much more rigid the 4 lb feels vs the 2 lb. I will use 2 lb everywhere else but wanted the extra strength around the tank. Took 2 kits, still need to fill a few small voids but went pretty well other than ruining a bunch of mixing containers. Trimmed off the excess, oh the irony of removing more foam that I paid good money to put in…

will get foam surface leveled out and seal over it with a layer of glass. Now that the tank is in place I can really get all the rigging tubes in since I decided the simplest way is to have a couple that run over the tank. Tank is not intended to ever be removed again anyway.

Also got the other fish box laid up.

Going to try to knock out as much as I can over the holidays, but at the end of the month the project is going to be on hold for a while. Goal is to get the deck down, but that may not be realistic.


Angler 204 FX
Yamaha 150

Great to see progress, know you are feeling good!

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Is your liver quivering from the fiberglass fumes and you can’t update or you itching too much to type???

don’t worry, I’m still kicking!

been away for some training the last couple months, should get a few days to work on it in a week or so but it’s going to be slow rolling for a while. Moving to CT soon so not real sure how I’m going to manage the project. But I plan to keep chipping away at it!

here’s the last update from the end of the year, guess I forgot to post it here.

Got my second fishbox laid up and de-molded, came out really nice and popped right off the plug with no hassle. They fit great in the boat.

Also got the tank completely encapsulated. Leveled off the foam, sealed over the top with a coat of resin, then used some bedding compound to smooth it out and make a fillet in the corners. Laid a layer of 1.5 oz mat over all that. I put some masking tape over the bolts before I sealed it up, I don’t ever plan to take this tank out but that way just in case someone does it won’t be totally impossible.

Drilled and filled in a small section of pvc pipe to allow a drain path for any water that finds its way onto the tank top.

After all that cured I rolled on a couple coats of Tile-Clad. Stuff is 100% as awesome as people say. Goes on very thick but still levels to a nice smooth surface. I probably used about a pint to do two coats around the edges of the tank top and had some leftover to start painting the bilge area.

Didn’t get as much done as I wanted, but at least the tank is fully protected now so even if my cover leaks a little I won’t feel bad about a little water getting into the boat for a couple months until I can get back to it.


Angler 204 FX
Yamaha 150

Pics aren’t working for me…

Fishing Nerd

“skilled labor isn’t cheap, cheap labor isn’t skilled”

sorry about that, cut/paste error from another forum. should be fixed now!

quote:
Originally posted by StumpNocker

Pics aren’t working for me…

Fishing Nerd

“skilled labor isn’t cheap, cheap labor isn’t skilled”



Angler 204 FX
Yamaha 150

Bump…just cause…

Fishing Nerd

“skilled labor isn’t cheap, cheap labor isn’t skilled”

Yo

Glad your alive and well. Too bad you gots to move.

As usual, beautiful, intricate work. Cracker Larry is smiling somewhere.

Unless you doing brain surgery for a living, you should be doing glass work for a living…as meticulous as you are.

The ENTER-NET Fisherman

well down but not out. project survived the move to CT and I got a nice shelter for it to live in, but have no time to work on it. I might have some time over the holidays but it’s probably going to be too (**() cold. We’ll see.

not the most exciting update, but it is what it is. life. someday I’ll get back to it, I promise!


Angler 204 FX
Yamaha 150

Glad your are alive and well! Hope they are paying you well to live up there!!! Good luck on the restart.