quote:I'M GLAD YOU TYPE IN CAPS SO I DON'T HAVE TO PUT ON MY GLASSES. IF THE BOAT WAS COLD MOLDED...THEN EPOXY. I GET YOUR POINT THOUGH.
Originally posted by chris VITS NOT REALLY A DEBATE, BECAUSE LARRY IS 100% CORRECT
EPOXY IS BETTERMY ONLY POINT IS, THE BEST ISNT ALWAYS NECESSARY, AND THE BOAT ISNT GOING TO FALL APART IF YOU DONT USE THE BEST, ESPECIALLY WHEN THE ORIGINAL MANUFACTURER DIDNT USE THE BEST.
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IF I RESPOND IN ALL CAPS, ITS NOT ON PURPOSE, AND I AM NOT YELLING
One thought. And, I may be over thinking this… But, when you remove the cap, floor, bulkheads, and such from a hull, it can sag out of shape if not adequately supported. On a hull the size of yours, I don’t think you’re in any danger of it sagging along the long axis (bow to stern). But, the sides may flop out some. That would tend to cause the each of the hull sections between the keel and side to bow up. It might not even be visible. But, on a small hull, you can change the planing behaviors with very little change in shape. If it was my hull, before I started putting anything back in, I’d get a couple of ratchet straps and put a little tension pulling the side back toward vertical a little. Once you get the floor back in, you should be good.
17’ Henry O Hornet w/ Johnson 88 spl
26’ Palmer Scott project hull
14’ Bentz-Craft w/ Yamaha 25
quote:
But, on a small hull, you can change the planing behaviors with very little change in shape. If it was my hull, before I started putting anything back in, I'd get a couple of ratchet straps and put a little tension pulling the side back toward vertical a little. Once you get the floor back in, you should be good.
Very good advice, but I don’t think he took the cap off. The cap should keep it in shape, but a couple straps won’t hurt. What I usually do is cut a couple of 2X4s that will span the gunwales and secure them in place before the demo. Also the transom skin will usually sag and bow out after core removal, so I secure another 2X4 from side to side across the back of the transom to keep it square and flat. When you remove support, you need to replace it with something temporary or the hull shape will change. And that ain’t good.
Capt. Larry Teuton
Swamp Worshiper
That is what I did.
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quote:
That is what I did.
Exactly 
Capt. Larry Teuton
Swamp Worshiper
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I only took about 18" off the cap but I see your point. I figured I need to put a strap on it, it wouldve just been in the way with the cutting and grinding going on. There are bunks on the sides of the trailer as well, but I plan on reinforcing it at some point before gluing things in
Regarding the cap, picture a cardboard shoe box with the lid on it. It’s pretty strong. Take the lid off and put some rocks or sand in it and lift it. It will bow out on all 5 sides. Put the lid back on and it will hold together. A boat is the same way. When you remove that cap, stringers and frames, you have to replace the supports with something temporary. You sure don’t want to glass it back up with it bowed out of shape, or it will remain permanently out of shape. And it will bow out of shape without support. That’s not a maybe.
Capt. Larry Teuton
Swamp Worshiper
Hey Budman14
In response to your question about rebuilding the base for the front seat mount - I wouldn’t put it back that way. I’m rebuilding a 95 High Tide 1503 and am ahead of you a little bit. Pulled the cap, and interior, ground it all back to (thin) hull, and used Coosa to put back transom, stringers, etc. I’m getting close to putting the Coosa sole in.
Back to the seat base. That recess in the floor cuts into the center stringer and only leaves about an inch of it. A poor design in my opinion . They formed the recess with a paper cup in mine and sprayed resin and chop in it - poorly. If that recess leaks you’ve got water going under the sole again. I’m totally reconfiguring my layout and that seat will be on top of a center livewell, but you could build up on top of the sole and then recess for the pin type seat base. Or, go with another type seat base.
Unrelated- I sent you an email through this site. Did you get it?
Works
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Man, I feel like I’ve done a lot but not really done anything. Does that make sense?
Got quite a bit more grinding to do but anyway,
What do y’all think about these spots in the corner of the transom? Will it need more glass or should I just grind it back more and roll on? That corner will be covered with thickened epoxy once the transom goes in.
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Looks like air pockets maybe?
And how about these couple of spots on the hull?
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Should I grind it down more or fill it with resin? Or both?
I would grind it out and add a layer of glass
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IF I RESPOND IN ALL CAPS, ITS NOT ON PURPOSE, AND I AM NOT YELLING
I found a fair bit of delamination / air pockets when I did mine also. I did the best I could and ground them out as necessary. Whatever you do, you will know that it is better than how it was before. … and there are a lot of old factory made HT’s out there doing what they are supposed to do. Do the best you can, but don’t put these areas under too much of a microscope. Disclaimer…I am not a professional, I just went through the same process when I gutted mine. Someone may have a totally different opinion on this however.
I don’t regret one minute of it (the rebuild) ,…but I now have an aluminum john boat 
Looking back at your pics, I would grind out the definite “dry” areas and fill with thickened epoxy. Most of these areas (transom area) are going to be glassed over anyhow.
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Well I’ve got most of the grinding done and thinkin about how to put things back together.
Thinking about goin with a bench like this
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Any suggestions are welcomed
What is your intended use for the boat? You have a blank slate, and can make whatever you can imagine! Think about how you will use it and go from there. You’ve made great progress, and can really go whatever direction you desire…it’s an awesome situation to be in believe it or not. Think hard and commit once you decide, and just do it! Awesome stuff.
Wadmalaw native
16’ Bentz-Craft Flats Boat
Just a though I had…Cut the front bench seat in two places, effectively making an " alley" to walk through (or fit a cooler length wise. Then you would have two smaller “bench” style seats. You could then install the pedestal bases on the seats and not have to worry about drilling / cutting the floor. I would think that you could have comfort with seats or a more open layout with the seats out. I would round off the inside edges to help prevent “shin damage”
PS-----I have two pedestal bases if you want them.
Agree 100% with EP. Mid ship bench seats are a PITA. Open floor layout is much more serviceable. If it was mine, I would remove the middle bench and build in two boxes, one on each side with enough room to slide a cooler between them. Construct the boxes so the lids are able to support the weight of a person seated on them. With all you’re doing it would only take a little more glass and some well spent time.
218WA Sailfish
200 Verado
The "Penn"sion Plan
Hey Budman,
As you know, I’m rebuilding the same model High Tide. With you, the motor, the gas tank, the battery and someone sitting beside you in the back, these boats are REALLY heavy in the stern. The guy I bought mine from had two bags of concrete mix under the bow deck.
When you accelerate, the bow rises a lot and can be a problem seeing. I, and others, have put fins on the motors to help the boat plane faster. Anything you can do to move some weight to the front of the boat will pay off. With a tiller steer you’re in the back, but you can move the battery(s) to the front. A trolling motor helps up front too.
I’d put at least one seat up front whether it’s a bench or pedestal. If it’s a bench you could even put the gas tank up there ( my friend has the same boat with that set up). You can run chase tubes where you need them now with the sole out. However I agree with the others that the forward bench seat is a pain to get around / over. It does all depend on how you’ll use the boat. Another thing to consider is if you have a Bimini top, who’ll be sitting in the shade.
I’ve seen boats with the forward seat built on a base that is also a storage box, maybe 12" X 12". If you just want a pedestal mount seat I’d build up a block tall enough to recess the base into so you don’t have to cut into the sole / stringer.
It’s fun to be able to redesign the boat however you want, a little intimidating too.
Have fun with it!
Works
Finally got back to work on the boat here and there after taking a couple months off for the holidays, work, and everyday life
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Got the cleats glued in
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Got some of the foam in but obviously didn’t order enough… as well as wasting a bunch.
Got to finish filling the sides and some low spots
Nice work man, progress is progress…
That foam is some crazy stuff isn’t it?
Wadmalaw native
16’ Bentz-Craft Flats Boat
Yessir I guess slow progress is better than no progress. Just got my foam in the mail, hopefully I won’t waste as much this time.
Man I gotta get this thing done, they say they’re tearing up the crappie in the upper lake(Santee).
That’s a nice boat you got leadenwah, mines not that nice, but hopefully I’ll be equally satisfied when I’m done with it.