What material is that for the coring? Also, how are you fastening all of that together?
BG
Green is divinycell, and gray is high density Penske board.
The mojo is so built up from me not going fishing that it’s powerful enough to hold the boat together.
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Luke 8:22-25
Phin,
Are you putting new floatation foam back in all of the areas where you took it out. If so, what density? I am rebuilding a small boat that had waterlogged foam and am debating exactly what should go back. I used to have a 1984 254.....you are doing your boat right. Looks great!quote:
Originally posted by empty pocketsPhin,
Are you putting new floatation foam back in all of the areas where you took it out. If so, what density? I am rebuilding a small boat that had waterlogged foam and am debating exactly what should go back. I used to have a 1984 254.....you are doing your boat right. Looks great!
Depends on how much support you need out of it. As far as floatation goes, volume displaces air/water so density isn’t the issue.
However, the 2lb is going to expand more when poured… So it can bulge parts of the boat out if no expansion holes temporarily in use when you pour. The 2lb can expand horizontally a little better than 4lb also.
For me I think 2lb under deck and 4lb in the gunnels around the chine with 2lb on top.
…unless someone changes my mind. What do you think?
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Luke 8:22-25
Would you want to float test it with weight, so you know where to put the foam so she will sit level if swamped?
Phin! I didn’t read all this artical but you might get some help from it on the foam? http://www.nmsc.gov.au/media/pages_media_files/files/buoyancy_in%20trailerboatsUpdate_nov11.pdf
dreamin on, yes I planned to put the foam in last after the boat has been splashed and tested. Then, I will have to patch expansion holes (mostly inside of access hatches) and touch up paint in those locations. As far as floating level when swamped goes, that’s one of the reasons I changed this boat’s stern so much. I wanted to get weight off the very back of the boat because I knew I was adding so much with the 4 stroke and new console and top, etc. I want to fill the transom corners below deck with foam and completely seal them off. The issue I have with that, however, is keeping that area partially accessible to access ball valves for my drain thru hulls that I plan to put in the sides of the hull instead of thru the transom. I think I have something figured out. A lot of the upper bilge from above the water line to about six inches below it will get foam too. I plan on glassing over the foam to cut down on moisture and fume issues.
Keeping the back of the cockpit forward will also help the boat stay more level when swamped. My deck drain design will also hopefully clear the deck faster than typical deck drains.
Have thought about all this a lot, and I even have a plan to bypass my high speed water pickup and let the bait pumps suck water from the bilge and go into the livewells, which won’t have the drains plugged, and therefore out of the boat since my livewells will all be above the waterline. That will be the backup system in the event both bilge pumps fail or cannot keep up.
Another safety measure I am changing on this boat vs most others this size is that I will have separate compartments midships where PFD’s, life ring and EPIRB are located. Foam used to be in most of those areas, but I feel like a better use will be for safety gear. When waves are coming over the bow, crawling into the anchor locker isn’t that easy. If waves aren’t hitting me on the bow, then I am past where I can stay anchored, or my sea anchor has been torn up or something. Stuff can still happen too quickly to react to i
Now that’s a well thought out plan.
ABYC used to publish a guideline on how much foam to use and where to place it. It was pretty accurate. Still good to test with boat swamped after completion. I was able to get steel pieces from a scrap yard off Morrison when I did it. They sell you steel pieces with weights checked by a calibrated scale for not much money and then will by it back from you when you are done.
it
quote:
Easier to stay out of trouble than to get out of trouble.....
The voice of experience. Very well thought out, Phin.
This is some good information on flotation.
http://newboatbuilders.com/pages/flot.html
Capt. Larry Teuton
Cracker Built Custom Boats
I did not do much this weekend. Been hurt and didn’t want to push it.
My buddy Jason brought me a set of steps this weekend so I would not fall out of the boat anymore.
Here is the conceptual deck drainage plan. Will plug the old drain holes up. This will get the drain lines higher, and they should also drain much faster since they’ll be larger and without any sharp 90 degree fitting bends.
In order to get the transom livewell forward enough for the motor to tilt up properly, I had to go with a different design for fish box lids. This design lets me get decent access to all of their interiors but still lets me access the leaning post base’s mounting location for backing plates and thru bolts. The backing plates will go inside the fish boxes with a removable “cap plate” for the bolts and nuts that I’ll make out of starboard. These hatches also came out of a junk boat, so more of my time saved. I plan to put small drains in the back corners of these gutters and Y the lines into the drain lines coming from the bow storage areas.
Last thing I did was try to clean up the forepeak ice box and partition design/structure a little. The removable partition will fit between the bottom of the prism beam (gray piece of composite coring in pic) and the flat pieces of divinycell on the sides (green pieces in pic). Glass will tie all that into the stringer and deck, then foam will go into the whole area to fill the large voids and make it hold ice like a champ.
[IMG]http://i80.photo
I, too, fell out of the boat when rewiring my Sea Pro this spring. Hope you are OK. I feel very fortunate that I was pretty much unhurt. Just a few scrapes and bruises. Its easy to fall when you are thinking about something else rather than footing and/or handholds when you are in and out of the boat 1000 times in a day… Be careful!
2000 SeaPro 180CC w/ Yammy 115 2 stroke
1966 13’ Boston Whaler w/ Merc 25 4 stroke “Flatty”
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I was tired and not focusing on every move. It also wasn’t a good idea to be using an upside down 5 gallon bucket to get in and out of the boat 100’s of times! Should have built some steps right off the bat. Would have saved a lot of wear and tear on me even without any fall. I am glad it happened to me and not anybody who’d come to help me or anything. My elbow took the fall, but it’s got my shoulder hurt too. Same thing happened to me a few years ago at wild dunes when I was putting in at low tide to go shrimp in bulls bay. Slipped, and that elbow and shoulder took all of it. I went and threw the net anyway that night and several more trips that season. Learned a hard lesson back then to just stop and let myself heal before I get to a point where I’m at 25% power for what seems like forever.
Now that it’s so hot, I am having to really have a lot of patience with this project. I am stuborn and want to work when I get a chance, but I can’t afford to get hurt from pushing too hard.
I am getting too old for this stuff.
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Luke 8:22-25
Yep, at 43 I’m no spring chicken either 
2000 SeaPro 180CC w/ Yammy 115 2 stroke
1966 13’ Boston Whaler w/ Merc 25 4 stroke “Flatty”
www.ralphphillipsinshore.com | www.summervillesaltwateranglers.com
Looking good. Sorry to hear about the fall. Glad you are feeling better.
Phin,
Are you going with clear lids? Livewell lights?
What’s your thought on blue livewells?
Will paint livewells light blue probably. I think whatever you can do to prevent shocking the baits will help. The baits will obviously get used to whatever color you have them in, and maybe they are more comfortable with blue around them. If you fished nearshore, then you wouldn’t want blue, you’d want green or brown.
Probably won’t do clear lids because they are not as strong as a thick fiberglass lid unless you go with a very thick piece of polycarbonate. They scratch up and start looking bad after a few years then cost a good bit to have replaced.
To keep a good seal you need a rigid lid, so that means really thick clear or either fiberglass. Maybe I can think of a way to do both like a clear viewing window with a static seal that isn’t used as the lid. That would take care of the light and shocking problem.
If I do fiberglass lids, then the baitwells will have their blue LED lights stay on when pumps are on. I believe that baits get shocked going from dark to light when you scoop them up. Stresses them if you do it enough times. Quality of bait makes a big difference to me. Rather have good frozen bait than poor live bait sometimes.
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Luke 8:22-25
dreamin-on, what do you think about a small clear window built into a strong fiberglass lid?
I am wanting to pressurize the transom well if possible, and I am doubting I can keep water from flying all over the place if I don’t have a strong lid with heavy hinges, gasket and cam latch system.
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Luke 8:22-25
That would be pretty cool, solid glass lid but lets some light in to keep your baits from getting shocked. I’ve never seen one and I like the idea. Bet if you did it, someone would copy it.
What about a “smoke” lid, as in the shower glass type of smoke, but made of thick polycarbonate? If it gets scratched it wont be noticeable. Gives a little shade to the bait too.
I’ve never had a pressurized system of my own, and on the boat’s I’ve been on that had them, we didn’t use it to hold live bait. So all I know is the standard live well and having to remember to keep the water full and nice and fresh manually. Maybe somebody will invent a livewell that doesn’t collect poop at the bottom also.