That’s a lot of hard work right there. Looks great.
Were you going to glass anything into the bilge to screw pumps and other misc things into?
Hey man this thing is looking awesome, that fortune cookie said it all…nice work!
filleting
building a beam to reinforce the aft edge of the fwd fish box hatch
Then adding 2708 layers and foam core to further reinforce the same area
trimmed and puttied
glassing the same bulkhead areas that were filleted above; the cut out strips laid on top the deck are set up on the corners in a manner where I can pull each one and know where it goes below deck (each corner below where they’re laid in the pic)
Forgot to get pics of finished glass. Results weren’t bad considering barely being able to reach in there on the below deck side!
clamping and glassing resized hatch
Hope you are wearing your PPE, thats a lot of glassing! If not, you won’t have any brain cells left after the project 
Looking good!
2000 SeaPro 180CC w/ Yammy 115 2 stroke
1966 13’ Boston Whaler w/ Merc 25 4 stroke “Flatty”
www.ralphphillipsinshore.com | www.summervillesaltwateranglers.com
quote:
Originally posted by dreamin-onThat’s a lot of hard work right there. Looks great.
Were you going to glass anything into the bilge to screw pumps and other misc things into?
Yes. I have some parts I am going to glass to the bottom of the hull and also to the top of the stringers. Waiting until I put more glass in the bilge and then some surfacing veil. While the veil layers are kicking I’ll put in the thru-hull mounting block, bilge pumps mounts, wiring conduit mounts, fuel filter mount, sea chest mounts and macerator junction box (small sump/reverse sea chest). After all that comes the skim/flood coat, which hopefully won’t be much since the surfacing veil 1/4oz glass layers really smooth things out. It won’t be perfectly straight like it popped out of a mold, but what I’m wanting is for the bilge to be smooth and easy to keep clean.
Trying to decide on whether to build in a “drawer” or shelf system that will essentially be right under the transom live well to increase storage use of bilge. Weights, spare prop, etc. can stay there. The only things back near the transom will be bilge pumps and high speed thru hull pick up. Everything else will be up near the cockpit bilge hatch within easy reach.
www.scmarine.org
www.joinrfa.com
Luke 8:22-25
quote:
Originally posted by Phinquote:
Originally posted by dreamin-onThat’s a lot of hard work right there. Looks great.
Were you going to glass anything into the bilge to screw pumps and other misc things into?
Yes. I have some parts I am going to glass to the bottom of the hull and also to the top of the stringers. Waiting until I put more glass in the bilge and then some surfacing veil. While the veil layers are kicking I’ll put in the thru-hull mounting block, bilge pumps mounts, wiring conduit mounts, fuel filter mount, sea chest mounts and macerator junction box (small sump/reverse sea chest). After all that comes the skim/flood coat, which hopefully won’t be much since the surfacing veil 1/4oz glass layers really smooth things out. It won’t be perfectly straight like it popped out of a mold, but what I’m wanting is for the bilge to be smooth and easy to keep clean.
Trying to decide on whether to build in a “drawer” or shelf system that will essentially be right under the transom live well to increase storage use of bilge. Weights, spare prop, etc. can stay there. The only things back near the transom will be bilge pumps and high speed thru hull pick up. Everything else will be up near the cockpit bilge hatch within easy reach.
www.scmarine.org
www.joinrfa.com
Luke 8:22-25
“Macerator”? Are you placing a head in the console?
“Endeavor to Persevere.
Give,Give… Never Take.”
EC
waste pump out goes like this
fwd fish box port plug - stbd plug to 1 1/8" hose - 1 1/8" hose to port fish box fitting w/ plug - stbd fish box fitting w/ plug open to port fish box - stbd fish box drain to 1 1/2" fitting & hose - 1 1/2" fitting & hose to port valve at junction box - stbd valve at junction box which has bypass valve lowest point of system to open junction box to bilge (bypass valve open when boat stored) when in use, then line from junction box to whale gulper pump discharges thru 1 1/2" hose and thru hull outletThe purpose of the setup is so that I have the option of flooding either rear box with ice water from the fwd box, draining thru either cockpit fish box, and draining either or both at once to single pump or to bilge. I did not want any plumbing going under the fuel cell, and I want the bilge to be isolated so the boat cannot carry much water if there’s a leak. Most of the back end of the boat is going to get partitioned with solid glass and have areas filled with foam. This is necessary IMO because the back of the boat is going to normally have a lot of weight in it (fish, people, live well, 4 stroke motor). Any extra water carried in the bilge will be a big problem quick. Btw, the whale gulper can also be a third bilge pump by opening the bypass valve and shutting the two fish box valves (all accessed from cockpit bilge hatch). The waste pump then will pump water out the bilge far faster than a bilge pump can. Another practical benefit from the bypass valve is that if the waste pump goes out, then I can empty fish box waste with the bilge pumps or the garboard drain if on the trailer…
Trying to make a really seaworthy and easy to use boat.
www.scmarine.org
www.joinrfa.com
Luke 8:22-25
Phin, you are a man who knows boats for sure 
Too bad most manufacturers don’t think like that.
Very nice workmanship also.
quote:
The purpose of the setup is so that I have the option of flooding either rear box with ice water from the fwd box, draining thru either cockpit fish box, and draining either or both at once to single pump or to bilge. I did not want any plumbing going under the fuel cell, and I want the bilge to be isolated so the boat cannot carry much water if there's a leak. Most of the back end of the boat is going to get partitioned with solid glass and have areas filled with foam. This is necessary IMO because the back of the boat is going to normally have a lot of weight in it (fish, people, live well, 4 stroke motor). Any extra water carried in the bilge will be a big problem quick. Btw, the whale gulper can also be a third bilge pump by opening the bypass valve and shutting the two fish box valves (all accessed from cockpit bilge hatch). The waste pump then will pump water out the bilge far faster than a bilge pump can. Another practical benefit from the bypass valve is that if the waste pump goes out, then I can empty fish box waste with the bilge pumps or the garboard drain if on the trailer....Trying to make a really seaworthy and easy to use boat.
</font id=“quote”></blockquote id=“quote”>Capt. Larry Teuton
Cracker Built Custom Boats
Marine Surveying & Repair
At this rate you’ll be slamming Grouper on that boat before the season ends!
I’m sure you thought about it, but do you think a seachest would be appropriate for your boat?
quote:
Originally posted by dreamin-onAt this rate you’ll be slamming Grouper on that boat before the season ends!
I’m sure you thought about it, but do you think a seachest would be appropriate for your boat?
Pumps last longer
No air locks
One thru hull
This boat will have four needs for raw water.
Transom well
Fwd well
Raw wash
Aux outlet- backup for any of the above or portable aux livewell (removable well that can ride on transom or deck)
www.scmarine.org
www.joinrfa.com
Luke 8:22-25
She’s really starting to take shape now.
Nice work!!
Thanks for taking us along.
adding glass for new fwd box floor
making flood coat putty and structural putty-
Inside the white bucket on the left you can see milled fiber sitting on top of cabosil. Inside the bucket on the right is Q cells (microspheres). One paint can has the dense structural putty I make with resin, cabosil and milled fibers, and the other paint can has the lightweight finishing putty made with resin, cabosil and q cells.
puttying (structural)
foamed
glassing
sanding
about to bond deck to stringers
more putty needed around top edges
budd
its looking great, I applaud you for the time spent, she will be well worth it.
glassing in a reinforced area for high speed thru hull
puttied
flood coating the bilge
fwd fish box floor extension and transition getting more glass
glassing
Jason cutting down the glass, which will let us get a better horizontal-to-vertical radius, in the section of the stringer that I had to cut down to match the other stringer’s height
sanding the cut and the old fir core to round it over for a good radius for new glass
puttied
heavy triax laid over
tabbing in the fwd bulkhead- I guess I forgot a pic of the finished fillet putty before glass, but Jason got a pic of me puttying the aft side
[IMG]htt
Just got off work…storms bigtime here in Augusta all day…flooding some areas.
Anyway, you have some real pro workmanship going on there. Looking awesome man! Cool pics.
Good for you!
06 200 Bay Scout 150 Yam
first flood coat round’s sanding done
dry fitting fish box hatch rings
building onto the finished box bases I’ve already got
repeating for other side
some structural putty in the joint
other side
[IMG]http://i80.p
Cant beleve you have time to work takeing all the pictures! Awsome
posting,wish I had that much energy! Cant wait to see finished project!Thanks for the updates.
This. Oat is going to be f’ing awesome. Your work on this boat and the level of documentation is absolutely inspiring. It’s official, I am jealous!