You set the drag on the lever drags according to the pound test of line that you are running on that particular reel. Set it too tight and your lines go pop. Set it too loose and your hopes go pop.
A stand up boat rod isn’t like a inshore rod in that there is very little flex in the rod. Think about your inshore rods and how they bend when a big fish pulls drag. That bend and extra flex isn’t there in a boat rod, so almost all of your “give” comes from the reel until the rod is in your hands. That’s one of the big reasons why setting the proper drag on your reels is important.
For the purpose of this explanation lets say you put the braid on your reel like we discussed and then attached the 75 or 100 feet of 50# mono leader as your topshot.
As a general rule you want to set your drag up so that when you move the lever to the STRIKE
position there is a full two thirds pounds of drag on the breaking point of your weakest line,in our example that would be two thirds of 50, which is 32 to 35 pounds.
You don’t always have to shove the lever all the way to STRIKE unless you have to, but you need to know that at STRIKE you are 2/3’s of the way to maximum. You can always push it past the STRIKE position if you are getting schooled,errrr spooled I mean , but that’s up to you and that particular situation.
So to set your reels to 35 pounds of drag at strike here’s what you do, and all you need is a hanging fish scale of some sort to accomplish this. There is probably one in your tackle box, if not you need one. A good digital one from Bass Pro isn’t very much at all.
Take your rod and reel outside and tie the bitter end off to your trailer hitch, a fence post, or something that won’t give an inch. Then set the drag lever on about a third or so towards STRIKE at the most. Now start walking backwards and let the drag washers work against each other for 10 or 15 steps. Rewind and repeat the process two or three times. You do that to get all the curd, oil, salt, and whatnot off the drag washers and heat them up a bit so you get an actual measurement for the next step.
Ok, so take the bitter end off the bumper hitch and attach it to your hanging scale. You can do this by yourself, but if have a friend to help with this part it makes it easier. In a nutshell while your buddy is walking away slowly with your scale and calling out the pounds of pull or drag, you work the reel to adjust the drag so that there is 35#'s max at the full Strike position. If you wanted to you could put the rod in the gunnel and pull it yourself and walk back and forth adjusting until you get to the 35#'s, just easier with a buddy.
That’s pretty much it. Don’t forget there is a bit of physics involved too as the more line you have pulling thru the water the more friction is created and thus more drag applied to the line than what the reel is set at. That’s a good thing, but yet another reason to set the drag at full Strike to 35#'s.
Do you have any good bottom numbers in the 110-125 depth? Not maps unique stuff, but hard bottom spots, relief, or ledges? If not let me know, I will pm you a couple of areas to get you started. If you or Rebelwhatshisname share them with anyone else and I find out about it they will be the last ones I ever share. And you really should only go to these spots once or twice per year at the most. Good spots often get fished out quick on a new numbers and new crews, so be a good steward and report back on what you caught there.
Again, I sukk at explaining stuff on paper, so if I confused you just sing out and I’ll try again.
Best of Luck
EF